stalled

[twisted metal]

Hi im new to this diesel stuff but followed the board for a while anyway My truck is a 94 gmc 1500 6.5 td stalled a few months back with classic symptoms of pmd failure i replaced it along with injectors, exhuast and a whole bunch of other goodies Truck ran better then new. 3 weeks later i filled up at the same fuel station as the first time it had died with ultra low sulphur fuel about 100kms later the truck just died with no warning on the highway this time it would not start. I tried a few this finaly tried unplugging an injector hose from both sides and it started, with it running plugged it back in and it died and would not start again. after being towed home and left for a few days the truck starts and runs fine although never actually taken it out for a drive. The truck also doesnt hold a charge anymore seems to need a jump start everytime but runs independent for hours after jump start
any thoughts?
sorry for the long winded story thought more info would help you help me

Thanks

[Chevylover]

Sound like a REALLY bad alternator ! After jump start, a diesel needs no voltage for ignition as a gas engine does, so it will run as long as you shut off or the min. rest in the batts is used up for the electronic IP and the PMD - they need voltage and the FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID ! No voltage a the FSO solenoid, the engine will die. Replace your alternator and the both batteries also and i guess the probs are gone.

Think about !

CU,
Sven

[twisted metal]

alt is very new and batteris test fine after running the truck, it will start right away after running but be dead the next day.
has anyone had any trouble running ultra low sulphur diesel? ofcourse with the additives used

first time with this fuel it displayed pmd failure simptoms second it just died with no warning but seems to start few days later and run fine now

coincidence not sure

thanks

[Oldsmoke]

Whenever these trucks suffer from "sudden death" it is usually a problem with an electronic component. The system needs proper voltage or the injection pump will not inject any fuel. If you are experiencing loss of electrical power then this is probably the cause of your stalling.:)

[Garth J]

Get a load test on your batteries. If one is bad replace them both with high quality batteries....Garth

[markmc]

OK, when someone mentions Batteries (yes I know wrong forum) I like to ask; What brand do you consider good batteries? Is there any service history out there that shows dry cell's are better than wet cell's?

[torque454]

New alterenator does NOT mean its good. Especially if you just bought th cheapie. The fact that it is "very new" makes me immediatly think "bad". It seems to me that there are alot of CRAP alternators and starters produced. If you dont buy an all new one, theres a good chance it wont work at all or last very long if it does. Also if your batteries have any age on them, when the alternator goes and the batteries get discharged, that will sometimes kill them. I had that happen on my 96 recently. Id accidently left the dome light on inside overnight, next morning i jump started it let it run for a while. The batteries never held a charge very long again. After that i was jump starting it every morning. ONE battery tested bad and the other didnt, so i isolated the bad one, and just used the one battery (it will start fine on one battery if its not cold out). It still wouldnt start the next morning. So i replaced both batteries and the problem is gone. Im not sure if this would be the case for you but it definantly sounds like it to me. As for the stalling maybe the fuel solenoid or crank position sensor is going out.

[Chevylover]

OK, when someone mentions Batteries (yes I know wrong forum) I like to ask; What brand do you consider good batteries? Is there any service history out there that shows dry cell's are better than wet cell's?


Ask 1000 people and you'll get 1000 different answers.

Yes, drycells (Gel like Optima or Exide) are better, because they can put out more cold cranking amps, faster charging, more durable on bad roads in front of shaking in a truckor else.

I got two Exide Maxxima 900 in my truck and after 10 years, these are like new. Had them tested 3 month ago, to check if batt or alternator is badand still putting out 915 CCA. New ones should have about 900CCA like written on top.

Get 2 RED optimas or Exide Maxima 900 for normal use.
If you got a lot of "music amps" or such else in the truck and want a batt the is able to be DEEP CYCLE, than get YELLOW optimas or Exide Maxxima 900 DC.

Just my 50 cents !


Cu,
Sven

[Garth J]

I agree with Sven

[Sundance]

I also agree with Sven........ AGM's (Optima, etc) are simply superior in all respects to wet cells. It's like comparing standard motor oil to full synthetics. Just no comparison.

[markmc]

Odyssey Batteries seems to be jumping into the fray for Dry cell batteries now too. We've run them in the race car with no issues for some time now. The thing I've liked about them is the quality and longevity seemed to be very good.

Where Batteries are such a big part of our rigs, it probably makes good sense to have a section on this forum for discussion on Batteries only with input from the forum so that someone considering a purchase has a predicatble resuult.

Is there such a section on this forum someplace- Batteries Only?

[Garth J]

Probably chassis / electrical would work

[Husker 6.5]

Aside from the alt/batt issue, the sudden stoppage of the engine could be due to a fuel shut off solenoid (located on the IP) going bad or bad connection to it. Could also be an OPS going south. No lift pump, IP starves. Quite possible, as he says it runs stationary, but he hasn't tried it under load (the IP wouldn't be able to draw enough fuel to maintain under load).

My two Deutchmarks worth.

Husker 6.5

[torque454]

Mine ran for god only knows how long with no lift pump before i discovered it didnt work anymore.

[twisted metal]

ok so i tested the batteries they tesed good tested alt also good. fuel is deffinitly present at both the bleed valve on the filter and at the injectors havent tested pressure yet but will when i have alittle more time. today the truck would not jump start at all and found a severd glow plug wire and a severd ground on the same side not sure how it happened but again no time to fix at the moment. how do you test the ops or is one of the by the time you get to it just throw away and get a new one?

[vmac4]

You say you have good batteries and alternator checks out,but you have
to jump start it.did you test the charging system output at both batteries
or at the alternator?
I would test the battery cables,from batteries to grounds,alternator,starter
Do a voltage drop from the batteries,to the alternator,and starter.also wiggle
and twist those battery cables,they can break internal and not be noticable
due to the thick insulation.You might also do a parrasitic draw test to see
if an accessory might be pulling your batteries down.
That is a thought I have on it.