a new one for me...

[christja]

This morning i was tearin down the road at 60mph and all of the sudden my rpms dropped off and my engine died... I was in the middle of 3 lanes of traffic, but i was able to shift quickly into neutral and coast it into a parking lot...I crunk it for about 3 minutes before it started up. My first thought was maybe my my lift pump got a gulp of air in the fuel line. after i got it running i pulled into the station and put a few gallons in. havent had the same thing happen since then. Any ideas or thoughts or what might have happened? my fuel guage was showing a little less than 1/4 tank. I was headed down hill too. Im stumped as to what happened.

:confused:

[3bals]

The same thing happened to me last night and again today. I was thinking fuel filter. I changed it earlier today, but this afternoon the engine quit again. After a moment it started and I drove home. Now I'm going to change the lift pump with a used one that I had sitting on the shelf. I hope this is it. Although these are the same symptoms that I had when my pmd went out. I replaced the pmd with a new one and a cooler in Oct of 2005. you wouldn't think it would go out this soon. The original one lasted 180,000 miles mounted on the pump and this one only has 20,000+ miles on it remotely mounted.

[3bals]

Oh, and I forgot, my fuel level is almost full.

[farwell25]

Mine did the same thin replaced IP but I thing it was my PMD but had 153000 miles so thought it wouldnt hurt to replace compete pump but while I was trying to figure out my problem I did learn tha when it would not start with key on I unpluged the eng shut off solenoid and it would start right up
replaced lift pump didnt work
replaced eng shutoff solendid didnt work
new battery cables and batterys didnt work
just wish I would have found SSDiesel before I bought IP Walts are cheaper (price not quality)

[christja]

Ive got a new PMD, and Lift pump with less than 5,000 miles on them both. I am getting a glow plug relay DTC...but i also replaced that only 8,000 miles ago.???????:confused: :confused:

[3bals]

I replaced the IP at 197,000 mile in Oct of 06.

[smoken]

Ive got a new PMD, and Lift pump with less than 5,000 miles on them both. I am getting a glow plug relay DTC...but i also replaced that only 8,000 miles ago.???????:confused: :confused:

have u checked your codes. in your truck. u can check them yourself with a paper clip. go to the FAQ's on ss diesel supply walt tells u how you can check your codes on the 95.

[christja]

yeah, i check them almost everyday and they are always the same...29 which is the glowplug relay and 36 which is IP pulse width...ive been getting that for over code 36 for over a year now and this is the first time ive had my truck die on me .

[3bals]

Well, I didn't get a chance to install a different lift pump last night. I did check the screws on the PMD to the heat sync. I read somewhere on this forum that they need to be real tight. While they probably weren't to the correct torque, they weren't real loose either. I tightened each one about 1/8 turn. I don't see where this would have any affect on the PMD, especially in this cold weather, 10 deg F.

I did drive the truck to work today. 70 miles one way. I left early, just in case I had trouble. The engine never missed a beat. So what was wrong? Can I trust it won't quit on me tomorrow when I go home? After 5 tonight I can bring it in the fire station and check it over. Even though the check engine light didn't come on, I'll check for codes anyhow.

Any ideas?

Jody:confused:

[RckyMtNDeZL]

Actually torque on the PMD is very important, it helps disperse heat throughout the heat sinc. Most important on a heat sink, of any kind. I have a heath kit, I toasted 2 pmds mounted under the hood. I havent used the FSD from SSD but they work very well as my buddy has had his on his burban for a few years now.

[6.5 on da bayou]

Im glad to see im not the only one with this problem..
Ive been fighting code 35 for weeks now.. I cant trust my dually to bring me anywhere with its eractic stalling. Ive got new ops, new lift pump, new pmd harness, new accelerator pedal, new lift pump relay, and a 1 year old pmd/fsd heat-sync. My next step was the IP but SSDS is testing my pmd before i spend the big cheese.
I use to absolutely love my dually for years, but lately she's makin me a little mad!!!!

[John R]

I had the same thing happen just recently when i went ice fishing my truck stalled.I got it going again it but it sputtered for a bit then ran fine for a bit then stalled out again.I got it going again and made it back home (it ran fine going home) .The next day i changed the fuel filter and it ran fine for about a half hour then it stalled again and i could not get it started again.As trouble shooting went on i ended up putting in a (New Psd and Heat Sink) which i wanted to replace yet anyway, a New Injection Pump as well as a few other items.After all was said and done it ended up being my ( Cranksaft Position Sensor) the wires were pretty much all broken off; and was causing a bad connection.So i think my old Injection pump may not been at fault afterall (A very costly problem) caused by such a simple thing! Id check this out so you dont make the same mistake. $ 2000 later and a simple $75 part causing the problem, figures! Hope this helps

[John R]

Mine did the same thin replaced IP but I thing it was my PMD but had 153000 miles so thought it wouldnt hurt to replace compete pump but while I was trying to figure out my problem I did learn tha when it would not start with key on I unpluged the eng shut off solenoid and it would start right up
replaced lift pump didnt work
replaced eng shutoff solendid didnt work
new battery cables and batterys didnt work
just wish I would have found SSDiesel before I bought IP Walts are cheaper (price not quality) Walts saved me aprox. $400 from what my cost is out here!

[6.5 on da bayou]

I will def. check mine.
As many times as I have climbed into my engine compartment, i may have pulled a wire also.
Where exactly is the CPS anyways.

[John R]

Ive got a new PMD, and Lift pump with less than 5,000 miles on them both. I am getting a glow plug relay DTC...but i also replaced that only 8,000 miles ago.???????:confused: :confused: I got a dang problem with my glow plugs as well. they dont always want to come on when they should! it will only do that for so long or untill i get ticked off enough to just go and wire in a by-pass circuit! which will happen sooner or later anyhow.

[John R]

I will def. check mine.
As many times as I have climbed into my engine compartment, i may have pulled a wire also.
Where exactly is the CPS anyways. Its located on the front of the motor and it plugs into the wiring harness by the injection pump.The crank sensor is held in place by 1 bolt, and should be removed carefully! sometimes they break off while removing so do remove it carefully .I twisted mine back and forth a bit first then twisted it back and forth while pulling or prying it out carefully.If you break it i have been told you may even have to remove the front cover to get it out.It all depends on how bad it is! Good luck!

[6.5 on da bayou]

Thanks
Will check it in the morning.

[6.5 on da bayou]

Hey John,
Still cant find it. Is it under the intake, or by the pullies, or near the IP? How many wires does it have? Its like a snake, waiting to bite me........lol........

Thanks,
Floyd

[John R]

Look in the front of the motor in behind the drive belt .Now look just above the damper pulley,(crank pully)look on the right hand side of it(it will be easier to see if you look from underneath your truck)and look up you will see a wire running up and down the front of the motor.Trace the wire .The unit slides inside the housing, so very little of it is really showing at all it only has 1 bolt holding it in place.It is only 1 wire but a 3 (strand wire combog. and mine had split tubing covering it !

[3bals]

Actually torque on the PMD is very important, it helps disperse heat throughout the heat sinc. Most important on a heat sink, of any kind. I have a heath kit, I toasted 2 pmds mounted under the hood. I havent used the FSD from SSD but they work very well as my buddy has had his on his burban for a few years now.


I replaced my stock PMD in Sept of 05 with a new FSD/PMD heat sync kit from SSD.
I understand the importance of proper torque on nuts and bolts. I also understand why heat transfer would be affected if the heat PMD was loose. But these were only at the most 1/8 of a turn from being tight and the outside temps were 0-10 deg F, making it cooler under the hood too. Why didn't it go out when I was driving in 100+deg F in Utah last summer with eng temps exceding 230 deg F? In was so hot that the plastic tube for boost gauge melted off the intake several times during the trip.

Anyhow, yesterday the truck ran fine all the way home from work (70 miles). But during the round trip (70 miles) to my mom's later on, It stalled on the hiway 5 times. Each time I was able to coax it to start again and get a few more miles down the road. I finally made it home where it sits today. I took the Jeep to work, as I didn't trust the truck. I'm suspecting the PMD is out. These are the same symptoms that I had in 05 when I bought the new one and cured my problem. The original pump mounted PMD lasted about 170,000 miles, but why did this one only last 20,000 miles? There are no codes on the system. I checked it when the truck wouldn't run and when it did yesterday, whith no codes.:confused:

Jody

[sixnickel]

On my son's '94 burb, which has a new reman pump, new marine injectors and a FSD Heat Sybc. The pump and injectors are less than a month old. The Heat Sync kit is about 6 weeks old. The thing started stalling like what you guys are talking about. And on my wife's burb, a 2 year old FSD mounted on a FSD cooler died. So I'm starting to wonder if there might be a bad batch of FSDs out there. When I looked at the thing to check it out, I went to check the connection, wiggled it, and the whole FSD Heat Sync was loose on the manifold. And it sparked trying to find a ground, causing the engine to stumble. So we tightened the bolts, got a good ground on the heat sync. Now its like brand new again. So what I think happened and what I think you guys should check for CLEAN tight connection between the heat sync and manifolds. And maybe run another ground wire from the screw on the heat sync to another ground. I think on this thing what happened was, after having the manifold apart three weeks ago, when we torqued it down it was good but the gasket relaxed after awhile and the bolts loosened up. The other four bolts for the intake also needed to be tightened.

Like I said before, the Golden Rule, when things make sense, check the positive side. When things are wacky, check the grounds, they'll get you everytime.

[3bals]

Or like Walt said, it could be a bad PMD wiring harness.

Jody

[w_huisman]

3bals

If you have that SSD PMD and heat sink mounted on top of the intake, 20k is about all you're going to get out of it.

If you end up buying another PMD, mount it and the ssd heat sink somewhere out of the engine bay and the service life of that little spendy part will increase dramatically.

[3bals]

3bals

If you have that SSD PMD and heat sink mounted on top of the intake, 20k is about all you're going to get out of it.

If you end up buying another PMD, mount it and the ssd heat sink somewhere out of the engine bay and the service life of that little spendy part will increase dramatically.

I guess I don't agree with your theory on the 20k longevity on a PMD mounted in the engine compartment. If that was fact, then why did my OEM PMD mounted on the IP, under the intake manifold, last 170-180k over 7 years? Lucky?

Jody

[w_huisman]

I guess I don't agree with your theory on the 20k longevity on a PMD mounted in the engine compartment. If that was fact, then why did my OEM PMD mounted on the IP, under the intake manifold, last 170-180k over 7 years? Lucky?

Jody

Mounted on the pump, the flow of fuel carries away the heat generated by the pmd similar to how coolant carries heat out of the block. Pump mounted pmds are known to give good service, but are a PITA to change when necessary. Another issue with this pmd location is heat soak after shut-down, when fuel is no longer flowing.

I know of a few folks who swear by pump mounting pmd's over all other options for the very reason you mention... a respectible service life, and I agree..... mounting a pmd on the pump is acceptable. Just let the engine cool down before shut-down after a hard run.

Putting a pmd on a heat sink above the intake results in the same heat soak issue mentioned previously, except it happens all of the time... at startup, while running, and after shut down. Heat rises. Hot air flowing across the cooler produces a poor temp differential across the cooler. The less the temp differential between the air flowing across the cooler and the heat generated by the pmd, the less the cooling capacity of the cooler.

That's why other folks have opted to mount the pmd/cooler in the air intake box (upstream of the filter, o'course), or out of the engine bay.... cooler air.

JMO, take it or leave it... no worries.:D

[EDUBE]

I have had this same probem. After acouple of weeks a code 215 came up. I replaced the fuel shut off valve on the IP and it seemed to take care of the problem. I would definitly check the crank sensor and wireing.

[John R]

I have had this same probem. After acouple of weeks a code 215 came up. I replaced the fuel shut off valve on the IP and it seemed to take care of the problem. I would definitly check the crank sensor and wireing. When my crank position sensor was faulty it never even threw a code! there was only a strand or two still making a connection of some sort but not enough to give a good enough connection for computer to recognise the that motor was cranking over so it in turn never allowed the injection pump to deliver fuel to the injectors resulting in a no start.