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View Full Version : Blower motor removal. Please help!


torque454
03-06-2008, 11:42 PM
How do you remove the blower motor? Ive taken every bolt and nut loose on that steel pipe that runs from door to door across the bottom of the dash and it simply will not budge. Its as if it was welded down. You simply cannot replace the blower motor until that is removed. I even fought to remove the ECM only to find a big black plastic bracket beneath it that you cant remove either. At this point it looks like you have to rip the whole dash from the truck just to replace a silly little blower motor. The holdup is that ******* little cover over the motor. you cant take it off until that pipe is gone. What do i have to do to get it out of there? It will wiggle around on the end but in the middle its stuck. I can see a weld mark where it was welded to a bracket and that seems to be where its held at. i removed two bolts from the bracket and its STILL stuck. I cant even drive this thing anymore until this is fixed. The ecm is out of it and the bottom of the dash is laying in 10,000,000 pieces. After i fix this i have decided to take the intake off to fix a fuel leak that i can smell but cant see. So i have alot of work ahead of me but i need to get this taken care of. Then i'll start on the leak and then im done. Please help!

Chevylover
03-07-2008, 09:00 AM
Only the heater blower removal of a 1995 truck ?

Haynes Manual :
1. Diseconnect batts
2. Disconnect blower wiring
3. Remove glove box, perhaps necessary to remove right side kick panel,
disconnect ECM.
4. Remove bolt from the right side of the instrument panel. Pull the corner of the instrument panel of for sufficient clearance.
5. Remove blower mounting screws and withdraw the motor and fan.

That's it !


Cu,
Sven


BTW : No, i have never done it, i know, that it should the pain in th azz to remove, but.... HOPE THIS HELPS !

torque454
03-07-2008, 12:40 PM
Only the heater blower removal of a 1995 truck ?

Haynes Manual :
1. Diseconnect batts
2. Disconnect blower wiring
3. Remove glove box, perhaps necessary to remove right side kick panel,
disconnect ECM.
4. Remove bolt from the right side of the instrument panel. Pull the corner of the instrument panel of for sufficient clearance.
5. Remove blower mounting screws and withdraw the motor and fan.

That's it !


Cu,
Sven


BTW : No, i have never done it, i know, that it should the pain in th azz to remove, but.... HOPE THIS HELPS !

Pain in the azz it putting it mildly. I'm gonna go try this again tho. Thanks. Maybe this will work.

DieselDog6.5
03-11-2008, 08:28 PM
Pain in the azz it putting it mildly. I'm gonna go try this again tho. Thanks. Maybe this will work.

Have any luck with your blower motor yet? I have done my '96 pickup, and if you have skinny arms like me, it's fairly simple. Find your right wrist, measure up your arm about 3 inches, and break it right there! Then you have a good excuse to bring it to a shop! Seriously, tho, I got rough with the rubber cover on mine, it was tough to get out of the way, but after that it went pretty good. I took out my glove box to have better access, but I didn't remove any bracing as you are explaining. It's just tricky getting in there. Took me bout 45 minutes. if I remember correctly, I used all quarter inch drive tools with a swivel.

torque454
03-11-2008, 11:51 PM
Yes i finally got it but i realized i did take too much apart. I removed the glove box also, and the kick panel. The one bolt on that metal pipe had to be removed behind the kick panel and then you have to pry that pipe off of the stud that is in the wall behind the kick panel, then remove the ECM and its bracket. Remove the wiring from the blower motor, and unhook the plastic cover off the top of the heater box and then its all self explanatory from there. The bolts are pretty easy to access. Have to remember that grounding tab tho. Took me a few days but its all back together.

Chevylover
03-12-2008, 04:57 AM
Yes i finally got it but i realized i did take too much apart. I removed the glove box also, and the kick panel. The one bolt on that metal pipe had to be removed behind the kick panel and then you have to pry that pipe off of the stud that is in the wall behind the kick panel, then remove the ECM and its bracket. Remove the wiring from the blower motor, and unhook the plastic cover off the top of the heater box and then its all self explanatory from there. The bolts are pretty easy to access. Have to remember that grounding tab tho. Took me a few days but its all back together.


Seems, that the haynes manual is not bad. Glad to hear that you're done.

Cu,
Sven

torque454
03-12-2008, 03:39 PM
Seems, that the haynes manual is not bad. Glad to hear that you're done.

Cu,
Sven


Yep. I need to get one of those. Chiltons sucks! Its way way too vague.

Chevylover
03-12-2008, 05:12 PM
Yep. I need to get one of those. Chiltons sucks! Its way way too vague.

Oh, i would not say that chilton sucks, but i often recognize, that the chilton is wrong, but otherwise you need two haynes manuals or maybe three.

One for the pickups 88-98
One for the Tahoe/Suburban
and another one for the Diesel engines

The best would be to have ALL - chilton AND haynes.


Cu,
Sven

BTW : The main thing is, that you worked it out ! That is what such a forum is made for - same to the dieselplace.

dusti
03-12-2008, 09:57 PM
hey i have a 1999 had to change the blower motor had problems i finally cut the rubber sound boot of in pieces pulled all the pieces icould out then unfassened all bolts and wiggled the motor out fairly easy. then put the new one back in without the rubber sound cover and it runs good i can't tell if noise level is much louder or not but it dosen't bother me good luck its really not that hardif u cut the boot out

DieselDog6.5
03-12-2008, 10:39 PM
I'm glad you got the furnace back in your truck. I strongly feel they should let the engineers design the vehicle, then send them out to the shop to fix some of the common problems we have to deal with! I had to change the blinker bulb on my bosses '08 chev pickup. I'm fairly mechanical, but ended up going to the dealer to have it replaced under warranty! The dealer book pays like 2.3 hours for a passenger side bulb change! Unbelievable!

JD_countryboy
03-15-2008, 11:28 PM
I second that make the enginers work on them after they design them. Maybe they might get their head outta their butt and use some common sence.

Joe 94 dually
04-04-2008, 08:14 AM
When you guys removed the blower was it to repair or replace, because there's nothing wrong with mine except the wiring connection. I've read posts here before about people having to hit on the dash to make it come on. That didn't work for, I would've broke my dash. I removed the glove box and I tap on the blower w/ a flashlight and that's getting old. Today I tried turning the A/C on and off and that worked, but I'm sure that when I really need it, it won't. So I think that I need to remove the connection and clean it and see if that works. Do I need to do the entire removal process explained here, there are wires everywhere and the ones I can reach don't seem to be the problem.

Oldsmoke
04-04-2008, 02:28 PM
I have been following this thread as I have to do this job on my truck. You have probably saved me 12 hrs. of yoga.

torque454
04-04-2008, 08:27 PM
Mine had to be hit also to come on. The brushes were worn out on it. I had to remove the glovebox, ECM, and bracket to even get close enough to the wires to remove them easily. Might as well replace the blower motor while you're there so you dont have to take it all apart again. Once all that is out you will have access to the hook that holds the plastic cover over the blower motor then you remove that bolt from the end pipe that runs across the bottom of the dash and then pry it out and away from the stud in the wall behind the kickpanel (got to remove the kick panel too) and then you have plenty of room to get the motor out.