Swampwing
04-02-2008, 10:51 PM
I am fairly new to the 6.5 but have replaced several other brand engines over the years.
I have looked at several posts and have not had much luck with my questions. I understand my issues are not all truck related but they still apply.
I am working on replacing a 2000 GM marine 6.5 turbo diesel that broke a valve and then proceeded to eat the #8 piston and then the turbo. A "buddy" at our local parts house got me a rebuilt long block for a good price from Eagle Engine sales that is supposed to be a direct replacement. While he had good intentions I really want to make sure before blowing up the replacement.
The engine that he delivered does not say GM on it and has the International diamond cast into the block in the valley. The block number is 12555506 and the heads are 10137567. There appears to be a date of 051098 stamped into the front of the block. Everything (waterpump, injector pump, plumbing, injectors, exhaust manifolds, oil filtration system and brackets) from the old engine bolted onto the new one except the intake manifold. The new engine has bolts that are vertical instead of perpendicular to the heads.
The cooling system is self contained so only clean antifreeze / coolant will touch the engine. It is not "marinized" with special water jackets or anything.
Questions:
1) Is this a "correct" longblock if the company stated it can be used for a marine application but it has a shorter warranty.
2) What would this engine have been used in? Could it be considered a Ford 6.9 engine?
3) Does anyone know what model truck I need to specify to locate the correct intake and source for one, new or used?
4) It appears the replacement has a cast crank in it. Do all GM diesels have cast cranks or do some have steel? Is one really better than the other for this application?
5) Someone told me the compression ratio may be too high if it is a truck engine. If I install a boost gauge on it, what would a safe max pressure be?
I already had the injector pump rebuilt, rebuilt the turbo and got everything ready to drop in. It is too late to return it so if possible I would rather run it conservatively than deal with trying to resell everything.
Any words of wisdom (other than I'm screwed hopefully) would be appreciated.
I have looked at several posts and have not had much luck with my questions. I understand my issues are not all truck related but they still apply.
I am working on replacing a 2000 GM marine 6.5 turbo diesel that broke a valve and then proceeded to eat the #8 piston and then the turbo. A "buddy" at our local parts house got me a rebuilt long block for a good price from Eagle Engine sales that is supposed to be a direct replacement. While he had good intentions I really want to make sure before blowing up the replacement.
The engine that he delivered does not say GM on it and has the International diamond cast into the block in the valley. The block number is 12555506 and the heads are 10137567. There appears to be a date of 051098 stamped into the front of the block. Everything (waterpump, injector pump, plumbing, injectors, exhaust manifolds, oil filtration system and brackets) from the old engine bolted onto the new one except the intake manifold. The new engine has bolts that are vertical instead of perpendicular to the heads.
The cooling system is self contained so only clean antifreeze / coolant will touch the engine. It is not "marinized" with special water jackets or anything.
Questions:
1) Is this a "correct" longblock if the company stated it can be used for a marine application but it has a shorter warranty.
2) What would this engine have been used in? Could it be considered a Ford 6.9 engine?
3) Does anyone know what model truck I need to specify to locate the correct intake and source for one, new or used?
4) It appears the replacement has a cast crank in it. Do all GM diesels have cast cranks or do some have steel? Is one really better than the other for this application?
5) Someone told me the compression ratio may be too high if it is a truck engine. If I install a boost gauge on it, what would a safe max pressure be?
I already had the injector pump rebuilt, rebuilt the turbo and got everything ready to drop in. It is too late to return it so if possible I would rather run it conservatively than deal with trying to resell everything.
Any words of wisdom (other than I'm screwed hopefully) would be appreciated.