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View Full Version : Lots of parts and no changes - GREAT


cobbler
04-20-2008, 12:27 PM
Well my morning startup problem has now escalated out of control. I have the morning smoking and chugging problem and put new glow plugs in and verified they are working - no change. I have since replaced the PMD with a #9 resistor and cooler(walts) and installed new injectors and lines. New fuel filter and lift pump is working fine. Brand new tank of quality diesel from the pump and guess what!! NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER! It starts just like I didn't do any work to it at all. To add insult to injury its now 30 degrees warmer than it was when I started the project.:confused:

Suburban K2500 HD
04-20-2008, 01:58 PM
Do you get any "Codes"?

vmac4
04-20-2008, 02:03 PM
We need some information about the syptoms first.What color of smoke are
you seeing.how long does it smoke,and chug.What is the fuel pressure while
it is acting up.Are you waiting for the wait to start lamp to go out before you crank it.How fast is the motor spinning over,Ex.cranking slowly,could be low
voltage,starter draw problem,really fast could be compression issues.Details
will help with the diagnosis.

Chevylover
04-20-2008, 02:05 PM
What about the batteries, cables and grounds ?

Cu,
Sven

962500
04-20-2008, 02:12 PM
To have replaced that much stuff and not had any effect on the problem, i would say your looking for a injection pump issue or a compression issue. Either case both sucks but a compression test could rule out a major component failure like a bent rod or scored cylinder and would be cheaper then replacing the injection pump to find out thats not the problem.

Oldsmoke
04-20-2008, 05:08 PM
A code scan from an experienced 6.5 mechanic can save one a lot of time and money in r and r work.

Only starting problems I have had were caused by a bad battery. The truck would seem like it was cranking OK but actually was a little slower than normal and also the starter motor was dropping the voltage so low that the ECM wasn't powering up properly.

cobbler
04-20-2008, 05:24 PM
It is white smoke that lasts for about 10 seconds and then idles smoothly and smoke clears up. Batteries and starter are great. I am waiting on the glow plug controller - sometimes cycle a second time with key. I have also jumped the controller to make sure they are hot 60G's and nothing helps. There are no codes and no ses light. It acts like the injectors are still leaking down.

grancito
04-20-2008, 05:30 PM
Have someone smell the white smoke to make sure it is not sweet, coolant in the cylinder. If not, could be raw fuel from low compression. This could be from worn lifters, or cylinders.

vmac4
04-20-2008, 08:51 PM
a leaking injector would cause black smoke.white smoke is coolant or
not enough heat.let us know about it with the new glow plug controller.
How about the voltage drop when the glow plugs are on.Mine drops to
9v when the glow plugs are on.If it doesn't drop,I would suspect the wiring,
possible fuseable link failure.check the coolant(with the engine cool,but after you run it a bit.Does it smell like combustion gasses.If it does,you have
bigger concerns like head gaskets or cracked heads,block.The better way to check that is with a combustion leak detector.If neither of these shows as a
source,I would have the timing checked.But if is lasting only ten seconds,I would be leaning towards not enough heat.(wait to start longer,then check)

cobbler
04-21-2008, 12:17 AM
Thank you for your thoughts. I have been monitering my coolant level for about 2 weeks and it has not changed. I will however check the cooling system with a combustin moniter like you suggested and also do a leakdown test to see if there are any bubbles into the cooling system. I wouldn't think it to be a compression issue because for the first 2-3 weeks I had the truck it ran and started flawlessly. It then started showing signs of white when started and just seemed to get worse every time. The smell is definately of raw fuel and not the distinct sweet syrup smell of coolant.
When it was started before the injector change, I would have to let it idle for about 15 minutes before I could drive it due to cutting out. Now after the smoke clears I can throw it in gear and it runs great. So the injectors changed something anyway. I also noticed today while driving I shut it off for about 5 minutes and when restarted it blew out a large puff of black. I drove 20 miles and shut it off for 35 minutes and when started it let out a bigger puff of black along with a puff of white! I will check the engine out mechanically and make sure there is no problems there.
BTW glow plugs draw battery way down so I am sure they are working. I jumped the 2 controller terminals with a small needle nose and the ends turned red hot - thats a pretty good current flow. Thanks

Sundance
04-21-2008, 02:37 PM
Others gave great advise.

Another, too often overlooked, diagnostic tool is oil testing.
A good analysis can tell you loads of info from engine wear,
to fueling issues.

John R
04-21-2008, 06:54 PM
Well my morning startup problem has now escalated out of control. I have the morning smoking and chugging problem and put new glow plugs in and verified they are working - no change. I have since replaced the PMD with a #9 resistor and cooler(walts) and installed new injectors and lines. New fuel filter and lift pump is working fine. Brand new tank of quality diesel from the pump and guess what!! NO CHANGE WHATSOEVER! It starts just like I didn't do any work to it at all. To add insult to injury its now 30 degrees warmer than it was when I started the project.:confused: Where the injectors new or rebuilt.I had Rebuilt ones in my new engine and i was out driving and all at once it started to smoke white.I took it back to the shop and turns out that one of the"new" but rebuilt injectors was faulty with only a few miles on it ( maybe 15 miles if that).But it ran perfectly just before i headed out from the shop.They put in one of my old injectors just as a check, and it ran fine again.They ordered me a new one and replaced the used injector.

cobbler
04-21-2008, 10:09 PM
I was wondering the same thing about the injectors being faulty. Thay are new ones, but that doesn't always mean they are perfect.
Today I had my buddy bring home the TECH II and I checked the timing with that. At idle desired was around 10.3 and actual was hanging right with desired. I then scrolled to offset. WOW it was +1.76 - That has probably been alot of my starting problem. Way retarded. I was trying to do a tdc learn and I don't know exactly what I pushed but now it won't even run. desired is 10 and actual is 1 - 1.5. can't get it to do anything now. Way to go me.
Now I need to figure out what the hell I did. offset is now 2.46 and can't hardly get it started. sets a code 1214 immediately. Now I REALLY need help:eek:

vmac4
04-21-2008, 11:25 PM
My chilton manual shows timing should be 3.5 degrees during the timing set.
if it stalls during the time set activation,rotate pump 1mm to drivers side
and retry.P1214 is code for injection pump timing offset.Could be that when they replaced the pump,they installed it out of time.Also could have a loose
trigger wheel as well.

Biginch D
05-16-2008, 11:21 PM
Yes. Relearn and set the timing to a range of -.25 to -.75 with the engine over 170 degrees. At this range the injector pump timing will fall into the average of 3.5 degrees as checked with a tech 2 or similar scanner. The actual and desired pump timing will vary and is based on the vehicles built in parameters and can't be changed but they will reflect what the timing offset and pump average settings are. Hope this helps. I've messed around with this one alot.