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View Full Version : Wipers REALLY Intermittent!



Vegwerx1
09-13-2008, 09:34 AM
Hi Guy's

My wipers are REALLY intermittent. They just started doing this. They come on and then go off by themselves. Then they come back on again. I will check the connections again today but I'm leaning more toward the switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated!

sixnickel
09-13-2008, 12:25 PM
Is this with the switch on or off??
What year truck??

trukdoc
09-13-2008, 09:07 PM
...circuit controller in wiper motor..common failure on delay wipers...

JD_countryboy
09-14-2008, 09:44 PM
Get a new circuit control board for the wiper motor. Was a gm recall. Most all parts places havethem. Make sure you RTV around all side EXCEPT BOTTOM. Thats what i was told when i got mine. (got mine for free, but i installed)

sixnickel
09-15-2008, 07:37 PM
Before you replace anything> Pull the PC board out of the wiper motor and re solder the pins that attach harness connector to the PC board. 9 times out of 10 this will fix it. I just did this last week to my work truck 97 K2500 Gasser, all fixed. My GM dealer told me this trick years ago when the boards were on national back order!!! Hope this helps!!

Vegwerx1
09-16-2008, 09:19 PM
Thanks Guys, What is the circuit board called at the auto parts store? Wiper circuit board? Man that sounded dumb! If not I will try the solder fix.

Thanks for all the info. It's a 97 by the way.

trukdoc
09-16-2008, 11:02 PM
...exzctly what it's called...

hraney
09-18-2008, 01:47 AM
Yep, wiper circuit board. If you walk into almost any parts store they will know what you are talking about. While you are there go ahead and get the heater host quick connect and get ready to replace it. The factory ones are usually ready for replacement (if it hasn't been done already).

Vegwerx1
09-20-2008, 01:52 PM
Heater host quick connect ? My ac quit working as well, could tgis be it? I already repalced the wire harness but did not solder, will do that ths weekend.

Husker 6.5
09-20-2008, 03:03 PM
Heater host quick connect ? My ac quit working as well, could tgis be it? I already repalced the wire harness but did not solder, will do that ths weekend.

Yes, the Heater Hose Connect that plugs into the crossover that goes to the thermostat. Over time, the o-ring fails and they leak and corrode. NOT related to your A/C. If your A/C just suddenly quit blowing cold, most likely one of two things: Low on Freon (check charge), or the pressure switch went bad (VERY common on '90's GM's). It is located on top of the silver canister next to the coolant resevoir.

You shouldn't have to replace the wipermotor harness why did you? Unplug the harness. Remove the cover retaining bolts. You will see the circuit board that controls the intermittent wiper speed. Remove the retaining screws that hold the board in and carefully remove it. Note the plastic "tower" that the harness plugs into, there are long wire leads that run down from there to the board. Note where the leads go through the board. Now, flip the board over and look at where those leads are soldered to the board. This is where the solder joint fails, and causes your intermittent wipers to become really intermittent.

Fire up your soldering iron and resolder the connections. It's now fixed, and can be reassembled. Other than the soldering, this is what you would have done to replace the board with a new one, and for $30 less!

Husker 6.5

Vegwerx1
09-21-2008, 10:50 AM
Thanks for the info Husker and to all of you who answered so quickly! This forum is invaluable!

Vegwerx1
09-21-2008, 03:23 PM
Hey Guys,

My A?C Quit blowing cold, Freon is good, have a new pressure switch to replace. Can I just remove and replace off the aluminum canister? No leaks or anything will come out when I remove the old switch?

grancito
09-21-2008, 03:40 PM
There is a valve in past the switch that will prevent loss of gas. Don't screw the new one in too tight, and don't turn it using pliers on the fat aluminium part of the switch.

Vegwerx1
09-21-2008, 03:57 PM
When I loosen it there is a greenish liquid that seeps (under Pressure) out, so I stopped and did not continue with the removal, is this normal and should I continue?

grancito
09-21-2008, 04:14 PM
Yes that's normal, remove it quickly so the valve closes, a little oil and gas will come out that is between the switch and the valve.

94sub
09-25-2008, 12:11 AM
that green stuff is leak detector. be careful not to use pliers on the switches, they do break pretty easy.

Vegwerx1
10-07-2008, 07:44 AM
Thanks for all the info guys. I guess I had a leak somehwere that was undetected. Still no A/C and now my compressor bearing fried last night! Does the R134 lubricate the bearing at all (I know nothing about A/C)? I have to replace the compressor today. Can't drive without the serpentine belt. Any idea what a compressor cost's at NAPA or O'Rielly? How hard to change (doesn't look hard)? Are those R134 self charge kits difficult to use?

Next I will replace the oil cooler and lines!

I want to thank all who have assisted me through this.

Mike

grancito
10-07-2008, 11:57 AM
Look at napaonline.com for price. If there has been oil loss, you need to add 10 ounces of 134a oil(special for that gas) Too much oil in the system reduces efficiency. Recharging really needs to have the system vacuumed down first to remove air and moisture. It can be done by connecting the gas and bleeding the high pressure valve, not professional, but works for me.

Vegwerx1
10-07-2008, 03:20 PM
Do I need to put the oil in a new (remanufactured) compressor, I just picked one up, need to drive the truck tomorrow. I don't need the a/c just need to mount the new compressor so I can drive. I have a friend who can do the rest (new drier etc)on the weekend. Will I need to add 134a oil to a new compressor?

Thank Grant.:cool:

Vegwerx1
10-07-2008, 03:22 PM
Is the High Pressure Valve Red?

Thanks, I hate being a dummy!

grancito
10-07-2008, 06:41 PM
Do I need to put the oil in a new (remanufactured) compressor, I just picked one up, need to drive the truck tomorrow. I don't need the a/c just need to mount the new compressor so I can drive. I have a friend who can do the rest (new drier etc)on the weekend. Will I need to add 134a oil to a new compressor?

Thank Grant.:cool:

I would pour some oil into the compressor before installing, so it doesn't start up dry, but the oil circulates with the gas, so it can be added through the gas charge port later. When the system slowly loses gas, the oil stays in the evaporater, so putting a complete oil charge in will over oil the system. I had to remove the gas and oil from my system, and put just the gas back, because techs had put oil charges in each time they repaired something. To find the high pressure valve, track the line back from the condensor infront of the radiator, it is on the line, also, it is a smaller fitting than the low pressure one.

Vegwerx1
11-09-2008, 10:43 PM
Hey Guys,

My tail lights, dash lights are out again, just put new tail lights and boards in, plugged my trailer in on Sat and number 9 fuze blew 3 times and now no tail lights or dash lighs. All fuses check ok. My DRL are not coming on , only when you turn on the headlight switch. Could a damp trailer plug have fried the boards on the tail lights and stop the dash lights from working?

Or is there another fuse or relay that I need to replace?

Thanks guys.

P.S. Am wanting a Mil Spec CUCV (blazer) for a survival vehicle. Am watching the auctions. Great thread!

Buddy
11-10-2008, 01:06 AM
I dont know why, but I have the same tail lights and dash light problem, except if I bang on the dash and flip the switch a few times they come on. Its quite annoying. I haven't gotten into the wiring yet, but I think this started happening shortly after I had a cheap remote lock and alarm system put in, which as you know controls those lights flashing.

When i turn on my lights it sounds like something shorting or trying to make contact and arcing, so I'm going to eventually take the dash apart and check out behind the lights switch.