No Power - Lack Of Fuel??

[simple man]

Ok...so here is the deal. I lost the lower end in the "original" engine in my 1996 dually. Short to a long story - found an N/A (naturally aspirated) engine in a 2003 postal truck that had only 14,000 miles. Bought it, did the swap, replaced all the N/A stuff with my Turbo'd parts. I did switch the water pump out due to mine was less than 6 months old and was the HO dual thermostat version from SSDS along w/the fact that the one on the engine had a screw on fan hub vs my bolt on hub. I also used the PDM from old engine as it also was from SSDS & had the #9 pin and heat sinc. My turbo was trashed (puking oil thru all of the intake).So, since money is tight, bought used one, that after it was purchased & got home realized that it was a GM1 version. I went ahead & used it as it was good n tight & I needed one. The onlything that I did to it was "lock" the waste gate shut - so it wouldnt dump the boost.

The good things from this swap is that I know carry oil pressure better than ever before, my cold weather starting is "unbeatable" and I no longer have an over heat issue (use to have temp ga live at 210 or above) - it now wont hardly budge off of 185 degrees.

The bad part is this: Just today i pulled my 7' x 20' stock trailer to mve some horses for my bro in law. With the trailer EMPTY - I was pulling down to 55 mph on some small grades. Mind you I live in Kansas - home of the flat landers! On one steep grade (hill - not MOUNTAIN) - I was down to 35 mph. The truck never overheated, didnt miss, or smoke. It just seemed as though it had the fuel "shutting off"! I could have my foot all the way thru the radiator and it would do NOTHING Seemed as it would always stay in 3rd, unless I let my foot off the accelerator a little then it would go into OD, till it lost speed & power again (which wasnt long) then it would down shift again. After moving these horses (only 2) I was coming down I-35 in KC and was only able to achieve 55 mph....on the interstate! And teh best part.....is that it is only geting bout 10 miles to the gallon.

So my questions....does any one know if this "once goverment issued vehicle" ( Postal truck engine) could have been spec'd differently than a civilian engine? Can you govern these 6.5 engines like you do an 18 wheeler so the only go so fast and fule only so much ?? Is there a possibility that the GM1 turbo I used is causing the problem, instead of using the GM 5 or 6?? Is there an issue with me keeping the waste gate from functioning - causing it to have full boost all of the time? How about the foot pedal or potentiamoeter - is there a way that it could be bad or is there a way to test it?

Guys when I am "cut" I bleed Chevrolet.......but these 6.5 engines so far are a disgrace in my eyes. I came from a 4 door dually with a 454 that I would stack up against any make, any model , any engine - gas or diesel. It would pull anything I hooked up to - and now have this thing that wont pull an MT trailer.

Guess I should also ask if there are any parts that can not be used in a non turbo to a "turbo" engine swap? I have been told that all is the same......true or false??

HELP PLEASE!

[Stumped]

Your turbo is not the problem if you arent seeing unburnt fuel out the exhaust(ie lots of black smoke)so the turbo is getting air in the motor.I assume that the i/p timing is somewhere near correct if you arent seeing white smoke(check i/p timing mark on ft cover) untie the wastegate for sure(21:1 comp ratio,dont put your head gskts to the test) if you dont have corresponding amt of fuel to burn with the extra amt of air the tied wastegate will produce,your just cranking up the comp ratio(with added boost) with no added benefit(power) The non turbo pmp is not calibrated for the needed amt of fuel that a turbo motor can efficiently burn(again,turbo puts air in,need fuel for the extra air to combust) My fleet runs DB2 pumps,so to get extra fuel from the electronic will require input from others here.I added a normally aspirated pump to my turbo motor,but turned up the fuel rate 1/4 turn for more fuel to match the amt of air that a turbo can produce. Good luck

[Stumped]

my coffee just kicked in...n/a pump...you need to crank the fuel up...that may me why she is running cooler(less fuel,less BTUs) again,untie that w/gate!I dont know if electronic pmp has fuel rate screw as DB2s,but a very simple procedure to crank it up so to speak.If tuned properly,that 6.5 will spank those 454s rears.I have both engines,and the old 6.5 will out pull the big block hands down with a lot less rpms.

[grancito]

Are you getting an SES light, if the system senses the over boost, the ECM will defuel the IP.

[simple man]

Do you guys know if the non turbo'd injectors are the same as the turbo'd version?

[sixnickel]

I do know that 6.2 NA injectors do not deliver as much fuel as 6.5 T injectors. When my Son and I built his 6.2 Banks turbo, Benny Avant at the Diesel Depot told me to use the 6.5T injectors, that thay would work out a lot better than the 6.2 NA ones. The engine had some other mods also but I''ll tell ya that thing goes for a 91 V1500 Burb!!!

[trukdoc]

...pmd,but did you change the pump???pmd is contols,BUT mechanical part of pump is where calibration is,ie:pmd tells pump full fuel BUT n/a pump is only calibrated fuel delivery for to n/a engine...engine now turbo model,needs your original calibrated pump...

[simple man]

What you say makes sense, so can the N/A pump that came on the engine be calibrated to "now turbo'd" engine?

[Stumped]

Take the cover off the top of the i/p(no biggie,although I have only adj fuel rate thru side cover) turn engine over slowly until the allen head screw appears in "window" so to speak,turn 1/4 turn clockwise....and reassemble.I would suggest looking at Banks Sidewinder Turbo page for their instructions.

[grancito]

Take the cover off the top of the i/p(no biggie,although I have only adj fuel rate thru side cover) turn engine over slowly until the allen head screw appears in "window" so to speak,turn 1/4 turn clockwise....and reassemble.I would suggest looking at Banks Sidewinder Turbo page for their instructions.

This works with the non electronic pump, did that to my Chev, but the ECM controls the later pumps, so internal adjustment is not possible I think? ECM can be chipped to produce up to maximum fuel the pump can produce, "50 HP per cylinder"

[Stumped]

Those darned little electrons anyway......

[trukdoc]

...change out "old" pump from original engine to n/a engine..if that ain't possible then have n/a pumpw/turbopmd recalibrated at pump shop to spec of old engine....