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View Full Version : DTC 35 and 36 ....HELP!!


Blackie94TD
02-11-2007, 06:33 PM
I need some advice. I have a 1994 Chevy 6.5 TD with manual transmission(5 spd Super low w/ over drive) 411 gears and a 1 ton rear end. Once again, I am getting DTC 35 and 36 on my 94 6.5TD. I have tried all of the basics but FSD cooler. I guess that is next. I rebuilt the engine at 250k. Now has 270k. The engine rebuild was complete with everything but the block new, bored 20,000 over. New injection pump(my third since I purchased the truck with 168k) and new BW stock turbo. New stock injectors and glow plugs. Upgraded the exhaust and induction system with a Banks Stinger System when engine was rebuilt. Banks system included dual pod guages for pyro and turbo boost. Radiator cored and cooling system is good.

Since the rebuild: The engine is sound and runs fantastic. Huge difference in power and torque but those gains have just been observed by me in driving it before and after the rebuild. No dyno test performed. About 1000 miles ago I began throwing codes. Some of my relays and sensors were not replaced with the rebuild and most have been simple fixes(speed sensor, turbo sensors, glow plug relay, stc). I have been able to fix everything but problems related to 35 and 36. I replaced the lift pump last week. Still did not help.

I am interested in trying FSD cooler. I hate to think that my IP is already going bad at 20k but know it is possible.

Question: If I add FSD cooler will I have to replace the pump too or can I just add the cooler to my existing pump? I know the kit sold by SSD has a new FSD included but is it possible to just replace the FSD and by adding a cooler stop the problem with DTC 35 and 36 without replacing the pump too?

Thanks for all your help. Any advice is appreciated!

Blackie94TD
1994 Chevy long bed ext cab 2500, 6.5 TD, 5 spd manual trans(SL with OD), 411 gears, 270K completely rebuilt at 250K, new IP, turbo, injectors and gp's,
Banks Stinger System exhaust, induction and guages(TB and Pyro)

Chevylover
02-12-2007, 04:15 AM
Code 35 or 36 is a PMD failure. You should replace it as fast as you can.
You don't need to replace/remove the IP. Remove the cable/prong from the old pmd and leave it where it is. Buy a new one with cooler and attach with the IP cable and mount it on the upper intake. Or if you want buy an extension cable also and mount the PMD and the coole somewhere else.

I mounted mine with an extension cable between the driver side battery and the radiator, so that engine fan can cool it too.

Cu,
Sven

christja
02-12-2007, 09:26 AM
I replaced my PMD with SSD FSD heat-sync because i was getting code 36. The codes went away for a while but then that 36 started coming up again... so i started running with 2 stroke oil in with the fuel and it seems to have gone away. Id do as Sven suggests, get a new one, and a new cable(I didnt get the cable and i think it might still be a problem.) or the extended cable. SSD doesnt sell the 4' long extension cable...

Chevylover
02-12-2007, 09:58 AM
I replaced my PMD with SSD FSD heat-sync because i was getting code 36. The codes went away for a while but then that 36 started coming up again... so i started running with 2 stroke oil in with the fuel and it seems to have gone away. Id do as Sven suggests, get a new one, and a new cable(I didnt get the cable and i think it might still be a problem.) or the extended cable. SSD doesnt sell the 4' long extension cable...


Yes, know, that SSD don't sell the extension cable, but there's an other competitor, which name i don't tell here, who does.
The name of the competitor is the same as the shot president John F. ??? of the US in an convertible car.

If anyone don't understand this tip ask per mail or ICQ 420-969-920.

Cu,
Sven

Blackie94TD
02-12-2007, 01:32 PM
Thanks for all your help. I am going to order the FSD cooler. If I decide to mount the cooler somewhere other than the intake what are my options? I see where Sven mounted his between the radiator and battery which sounds like a good idea. Are any of you guys still using the "turbo power" cover over the intake. I read a variety of opinions on whether to mount to the intake or remote location but I wonder what the options are. I know if it mounts to the intake the cover is history.

As far as driving it goes, I don't have to until I add the FSD sync kit from SSD. I have another truck(rice burner) and the 6.5 can sit until repaired.

I want to thank ya'll( yes, I am from the South) for the advice. This site is wonderful! I have owned my truck since 1998 and basically had no resources or people to talk to regarding the 6.5. This is a dream. I look forward to talking with you in the future.

Remember, Nobody really understands the 6.5 until they have owned one. Anybody can own a Powerjoke, but it takes a man love and understand the 6.5.

Blackie is my baby. I have been accused of caring for the truck more than my wife. Maybe so. Wives can be replaced.

Blackie94TD
1994 Chevy long bed ext cab 2500, 6.5 TD, 5 spd manual trans(SL with OD), 411 gears, 270K completely rebuilt at 250K, new IP, turbo, injectors and gp's,
Banks Stinger System exhaust, induction and guages(TB and Pyro)

Chevylover
02-12-2007, 02:17 PM
I never had this plastic cover. As i bought my truck it was gone, because the PMD/FSD-Cooler is mounted there. I relocated the cooler with an extension cable between battery and radiator, because there it seems to be a much colder area than the intake. Between radiator and batt is the airflow trough the grill while driving and the airflow through the cooling fan. Another point is that the heat coul be better given away to the "cold" batt tray as to the "hot" intake. At least if you park the truck and shut down the engine the engine heat ever up. So on an parked truck the hottest place will be directly under the hood where normally the cooler is mounted. In the batt area it is much colder.


Cu,
Sven


BTW : I don't like any plastic covers on engines. I will see the engine and not such damn plastic. Plastic is for rice burner only - not for real trucks !