cold find warm bogged down

[tonyyy_11111]

hello and thanks for any past help but now i have another problem
starts fine now .. cold
starts fine warm but when you try and accelerate it boggs and a lot of black smoke comes out and starts to knock if the accerator is pressed to far
.
new all three selinoids
new vaccum pump
new vaccum lines
new injectors
new gas tank and lines to the tank
new egr valve
and am getting a egr cold .. 401 i think
any suggestions would be apprciated .

[grancito]

Please fill in your signature so we know something about your truck. Could be the brake sensor activating exhaust gas return.

[tonyyy_11111]

thinking of a crossover ? that would affect the boast and the egr flow correct ?

[grancito]

Don't think so, pull the intake extension off and run the engine, you can hear the exhaust coming into the intake manifold, have someone press the accelerator a little, the noise should go and perhaps you can see the EGR valve shut. If it doesn't shut, that's the problem. If it is shut at idle have the person press the brake pedal, it should open, then shut when the brake pedal is released.

[tonyyy_11111]

ok let me try that this weekend

[tonyyy_11111]

didnt have a second person so hooked up the vaccum gauge to the egr and put it up to my windshield so i could see it



no vaccum at idle when i started it up in park
no vaccum when i pressed on the accelerator a bit

pressed the brake pedel the vaccum at the egr went to 20 . when i let off the pedel it went down to 0. i tried it a few more times and the vaccum never came back at the egr in park

put it into drive ( brake applied) vaccum went up to 20 released the brake and the vaccum stayed @ 20 till i pressed the quickly and it went off then back on when i released the accerator . when lightly pressed it stayed at 20

put back in park and released the brake the vaccum stayed at 20

the 20 " of vaccum would not open the new egr valve . i had an old egr valve hooked it up to the egr line and it opened right up .. so i put the old one back on and it would not open in place with the vaccum applied 18 to 19 "

what would hold it closed against the vaccum .not enough exhaust presure to help it open ?
any ideas would be greatly appriciated

[grancito]

I don't know why it won't open, but they are better off closed all of the time. The black smoke occurs if it opens while accelerating. Go for a drive with the vacuum gauge connected to see if it gets vacuum when the black smoke occurs. Other possibility is that the CAT is blocked with carbon, it will be if there has been black smoke for a while, the back pressure could open the EGR, it will reduce boost pressure too.

[God prefers Diesels]

I don't know if this will help, but right after I rebuilt the 6.2 in my bronco (probably 1000 miles) It started knocking going down the interstate. Oddly enough, it only knocked when I gave it throttle. It also smoked. Keep in mind it is a non-egr, non-turbo engine, so I wasn't getting smoke from reduced turbo pressure and unburned fuel. Turns out it was a stuck injector. It knocked very loudly (louder than dual straight pipes at 75mph) I thought for sure the engine was coming apart at the seems.

The injector in question was so seized that I couldn't get the needle out of that cup it sits in. The only way I could even move it was to hit the end of the needle with a hammer each direction about 1/16 of an inch.

It might not be your problem, but checking them on your turbo engine is only a 2 hour max job. Might be worth looking into.

Also, I've read I think on this site that you can plug part of your egr so it is disabled. Might look into that too. Good luck!

[Buddy]

Why did you replace all those parts? Did you have a diagnosis of bad vacuum? had you checked the vacuum before replacing the parts?

What is the vacuum to the turbo wastegate actuator at idle?

knocking sounds a lot like an injector problem. Crack an injector line and see if knock goes away. then tighten that one and loosen next line and try.

[tonyyy_11111]

well the reason i replace the parts ..
i dont use the truck much bought it to tow a boat and that is really all it does have had it for a while bought with 50000 now have 117000. it has been pretty much trouble free
then i needed it last fall and the stalling problem and no vaccum so the pump was chewed the lines ect. time for injectors return lines ... still looking for the stalling found the rotted supply and return lines and a bad break line while i had the tank down . rotted sending unit connectors and for 100 buck replaced the tank while it was down .. it showed signs of heavy rust in parts

so here we are
well when i replace the tank i left a clamp off on the fill hose .. tightened it up
rerouted the return line was getting deflected by the fill tube dont know if it was enough crimp but moved it anyways

tested power at various plugs
took it for a ride much better but a hesitation and bogg with some smoke then it would take off and code not enough egr flow

blocked the egr purrs like a kitten
now for why .. at least i can use it loving my truck again
thanks for all the help
but i am a fool and i will be looking into why it wont run 100 % with the egr connected just dont have the time
oh and the new sending unit doesnt work .. i could be a third off but i was pretty carefull to put it in the way the old one was .. but that is not the end of the world fill up ever 250

[Buddy]

Did you get that POS off the top of the intake :) Or just plug the vacuum to it? get a PCM from a L65 "F" engine.

[tonyyy_11111]

i am in ct i will have to use it when it is time for inspection . . so i just plugged the vaccum line too it . was thinking of putting a plate under the egr that they would not see and leave it plugged in .. think they will give me a problems with the check engine light on when i have to go for emissions ?

[Buddy]

Well, gut the intake, put a plate there with the EGR on top of it and leave the things plugged in. Then get yourself a PCM out of a 98 "F" engine w/ same tranny type so it doesnt have EGR programming and no codes. You might find one at a salvage yard. get you some more power too. A PCM from 96-2000 might work, if you can pick one up cheap on ebay or craigs list or local salvage.

[tonyyy_11111]

cant i just take the hose off it and leave the code in the computer .

[tonyyy_11111]

mine is a 1500 can i use 2500 3500 pcm s

[Buddy]

You can use a 2500/3500 PCM, however I am unsure of what needs to be done in OBD2, some have some theft protection stuff. You'll have to run a TDCO learn procedure, which can be done without a scanner (there is a key on key off (KOKO) procedure) , but scanner is alway nice. My OBD1 is really easy.

You can just inplug the vacuum, but if you saw what was inside the intake youd be mad :) Such a big restriction inside it. Ill take a pic tomorrow and post it. And if you just unplug the vacuum it could still leak and cause you issues.

I bought a complete new "F" intake on fleabay for like $150. Then I have Felpro gaskets from SSDS that block off the EGR ports in the head (you can open the holes in the gasket, but it comes closed). That is the real important part, blocking the ports so you cant get anything into the intake.

[tonyyy_11111]

that is what you mean by gutting the intake ? blocking the eg flow ? and i went on my first trip after all the adds and got to 17 mpg i want to take another trip just so i can check it ahaha