#9 resistor installed(finally)

[lpsaxman]

I don't post many threads, but I check this site frequently as I am fairly new to the diesel world(need all the knowledge I can get). I finally got busy with my first mod, #9 resistor. I was a little apprehensive about starting to put mods on my truk because it runs so well. 200,000ks and running great! But I would like more power.
Upon receiving my chip, the instructions state that all I have to do is loosen the 3 flange bolts on the IP so I can rotate it to access the PMD easier.(this will be easier than I thought!!). Absolutely not!! My IP wouldn't turn because of the fuel lines holding it tight in the back. I then had to remove the entire intake manifold just to get at it. I wish that the instructions would have said this to begin with, I would have been better prepared. My couple hour job turned into 2 days!
Maybe Walt can modify the instruction sheet to remove the intake manifold first. It might save guys like me the headache of not being prepared for the job. I know that folks just buy a new PMD and mount it somewhere else, don't have the money.

Anyway, I have a little better pickup from a stop, and the engine sounds smoother. AWESOME! Can't wait to put on the new 4" exhaust!!

Which begs the question:
Is there some secret to installing that, or is it as easy as it sounds.

I love this website and look forward to your replies.

[grancito]

I would not attempt to change the resistor in the original PMD location. Why did you not relocate it on some piece of heat sync, it is important to move it to a cooler place.

[lpsaxman]

If the PMD is still on the Ip, and it has 200,000ks, and I haven't had the prob's that I have seen in this website, why would I shed another $250.00 just to put it somewhere else? As I have said before, I am new to the 6.5 world and am looking to amp up my truck. Could it be that the mods I am going to put on would cause these component problems? I dunno. I do know that an open exhaust and marine injectors will unleash my 6.5, but do I have to do additional mods to accomodate the extra power I want out of my ride? These are things I need to know.

[Garth J]

Do the exhaust first along with Walts intake then you will notice the difference then if you decide to get a chip get the cooling upgrade along with it then you will have a great running unit
Cooling is more important than anything else on these trucks before the 97 factory cooling upgrade

[lpsaxman]

I'm going to have to take this slow since my wife is already working overtime to help pay for my truck habit. HAHA!
Next mods are exhaust, then injectors.
Good info Garth, is the cooling upgrade available from walt?

[M123KT-450]

I was told the Injector's are a "white elephant" and won't do anything but make it start easier, this true ? :confused: ?

I was told the best upgrade with the most gain is the 80hp chip ;) . . .

On my truck the chip will be next as i'm told the Camshaft & Injectors are "white elephants" ? i have done the other mods tho.

Mods/Upgrades:
1. D-tech PMD #9 Resister bumper mounted.

2. Air-box Deletion / Open air intake.

3. CDR Deletion.

4. Open exhaust.

5. 3500HD trans cooler.

6. Mechanical waste gate conversion.

Still to come:

1. vac system removal.

2. 80hp chip.

3. camshaft :confused: ?

4. Injectors :confused: ?

I'm not impressed with its performance both in power and reliability . . . To many break downs no place near enough power.

EDIT:
I would check into them Injectors before ya buy them, Intake / exhaust / #9R / 80hp chip i was told are the worth while power adder's, PMD bumper mount, HD trans cooler where the top suggested reliability adders . . .

I would relocate that PMD before it fail's, my truck towed a dozen heavy loads in 6,000-9,000lb range without any power issues once the first PMD failed truck has not been the same since the power went way down way way down it went from towing 9K-Lbs decently to barely pulling 6,000-lbs to being doggy under a 4,500lb load and its kept routinely breaking abut once a month . . .

I wonder if there's some thing to this ? . . .

It smoked 1 PMD on pump Smoked another on the Intake . . . The bumper mounted unit working flawlessly . . . each PMD failure = less power after repair more frequency in break downs with each failed PMD . . . the power adder's have improved it a decent amount fly's when its empty but once you put 1,500's in the bed and hitch 3,000lb's behind it truck still slows way down and really struggles in the hill's. . .

Mike

[JD_countryboy]

Man you need need to shut up. All you ever seem to do is b*tch about your truck in EVERYONE ELSES Post. One minuite your parkin your "pile", next time your throwin upgrades at it? For cryin out loud, get rid of your truck, grow some b@lls and LEAVE US ALONE! Believe it or not Most everyone but you comes to this site, happy with there rig, and more than greatful for the helpful advice they get keepin it running, and adding a few upgrades. They dont get on here to make it a point to b*tch abouth there rig in ever single post possible.

[ZiGBlazer]

Before you make any other posts on this site figure out what is wrong with your truck. Aside from the PMD failures (which can be fixed right with a relocation) these are some of the most reliable trucks around. The 6.5td was never a power house, but it wasn't a honda either. When I got my truck it felt a little under powered, so I dyno'd it and had 125hp to the ground. I fixed a couple little problems, upgraded exhaust, intake, and added 80hp chip. Still reliable, more so than friends fords and Cummins. Pulled 9k through hills with cruise at 72mph and never dropped below 70 and never downshifted, even got 13mpg doing so. Only thing wrong with mine now is that I can't get above 16mpg.

So if you can't fix your truck yourself so it works right, then take it to someone who can, and stop complaining on this forum. If you think it is working right and just a dog then take it to a dyno and see how it is doing. It should be getting roughly 140 hp to the ground factory. Anything less means it isn't running right and should be looked at by a qualified professional.

Then if you've got it running right and still don't like it, sell it. If you paid $8k for it less than a year ago, it should still be worth $7k+ unless you trashed it. Then go buy an old cummins, I see them all the time for $3-4k, so you'll be money and headache ahead.

[Garth J]

I'm going to have to take this slow since my wife is already working overtime to help pay for my truck habit. HAHA!
Next mods are exhaust, then injectors.
Good info Garth, is the cooling upgrade available from walt?

Yes Walt has the complete kit and it works well you just have to tweak the belt tensor a bit In my opinion the exhaust and intake are the biggest improvements you can make ...G

[JD_countryboy]

Sorry bout makin ya edit my post Garth. I'll try n do better next time. Too bad it aint that easy to get rid of those hackers. Keep up the good work.