best oil for a 6.5L

[grvrjr]

I want to know which oils are being used the most in you guys 6.5L? Ive been lookin at a few synthetics like amsoil, redline, and royalpurple. I think those are the best in synthetics to me. Or should I just stick with my shell rotella with the lucus oil stabalizer ive been using. Also what type of oil filter is best for the 6.5L. Right now im using K&Ns filter but Ive heard fram is good too.

[M123KT-450]

Not sure how long you been running what your running but after a while of running the same oil filter and additives the engine gets used to them.

Some times going to a "better" oil & filter or different oil & filter is some times bad for the engine Rather issue that weren't there before show now or soon after ;)

I myself have been running AMSOIL Filter's and oil, No complaint's on oil performance . . . 38psi at idle hot and 60psi running down the road :D

I change my oil filter every 3,000 miles and my oil every 9,000 miles, and have put a little over 40K miles on it so far :eek: Wow 40K already :p


Mike

[JD_countryboy]

Runnin Mobil 1 synthetic and filter in my Gasser, plow truck. My 6.5 liked burning the new formulation of rotella. switched to mobil delvac. burnes way less, only addin 2-3 qt if doin lots of towin between 3,000 mile oil changes. Little to no towin then im only addin like a qt maybe. Rotella i was burnin 4-6 qt with verry little towin. I like the nut on the bottom of the K&N filter, so thats what ive been and am currently running on the diesel.

[rooferwill]

Well in my experience with filters, i wouldn't put a fram on a go cart. I've used many diff filters and i've been happy with most of them especially purolator, ac delco, and wix. Wix is probable one of the best on the market especially for the price. Stay away from fram and the super tech filters from walmart and most auto store brands with the exception being the napa brand. I may also be switching oil from rotella to delvac to see if any change in pressure and use

[M123KT-450]

My truck doesn't hardly use any oil now 1/8 qt every oil filter change 3,000 miles, so its about 3/8 qt every oil change 9,000 miles . . .


Mike

[JD_countryboy]

Well in my experience with filters, i wouldn't put a fram on a go cart. I've used many diff filters and i've been happy with most of them especially purolator, ac delco, and wix. Wix is probable one of the best on the market especially for the price. Stay away from fram and the super tech filters from walmart and most auto store brands with the exception being the napa brand. I may also be switching oil from rotella to delvac to see if any change in pressure and use

Napa Gold filters are made by WIX.

[M123KT-450]

Yup that is true iirc the part numbers also jive to

Mike

[ZiGBlazer]

I grew up using Fram, the smarter I got, the less I wanted to use them. Did research back in college and Wix was the best I could find. Wix is still right up there, but I really like the tests of the Amsoil filters. I also like the specs of the mobil 1 filters. Haven't been able to get amsoil filters till now, so my stuff still has the wix on until next filter change is due.

I was using Rotella T 15w-40in my 6.5L, until I replaced the bearings, oil pump, and rear main seal. That finished off my the last of my oil leaks so I switched to Rotella Synthetic 5w-40. Never had any problems with either, it did run a little smoother on the synthetic. Any good synthetic is worth it in my book, Rotella synthetic is just a bit cheaper than most. I also used Amsoil ATF in the trans when I put the rebuilt trans in, as well as amsoil in the t-case and diffs. I'm right up by where Amsoil is made so people are partial to it.

I'm running Amsoil 5w-40 in my duramax because I believe it is a little better than the Rotella, but then it should be it costs a lot more. The previous owner was using Rotella T every time, when I flushed it out and put Amsoil in it ran a lot smoother. I am planning on keeping the d-max for a minimum of 15 years so anything I can do to help it last will be done. The 6.5L lasted me 7 years and is in better shape now than when I bought it, without putting as much as a d-max costs into it.

Stay away form royal purple in the motor. It is a race designed oil and not made for long life. I do hear it works good in diffs, just causes problems in engines on road.

[grvrjr]

I also think royal purple is better for gasoline engines than diesel. when you look on amsoil or redline there 15w-40 is specificly for diesel trucks. It is formulated for diesel trucks. When you look up the 15w-40 oil on royal purples site it just 15w-40. Its not specified as diesel oil. I think there 15w-40 oil is the same oil as there other oils just the viscosity is diffrent.

[M123KT-450]

Ya I also heard some thing about Royal Purple not being a good diesel oil.

Mike

[trukdoc]

...maintenence for a multi-million $ truking co. for 10yrs...our bulk oil{run in everything} was mobil delvac 1300 super 15w40...25-30,000mi oil changes on class 8 truks...changing oil and filter together,pulling oil samples at change...NEVER had a lubrication related failure..I'm talking truks that average175-225000mi. a year...we ran all mobil products,50w synthetic in trannys-75w85mobil in rear-ends...we also ran all baldwin filters...I still run delvac in beast and dually have mobil 1 in wifes' burb...change oil in beast when hot temp pressure starts to stay @30psi{@6kmi} I use cheeeep napa{silverline} still getting clean samples...this is just what I do...follow what works for you...jd

[trukdoc]

...guy I got beast from b*%&^$# about oil consumption{he was using rotella} said forever adding oil...changed to delvac and I have'nt had that problem...told him what I did about the "oil" problem and he switched his dodge cummins over and his other oil problem went away...for what it's worth rotella was designed for 2-cycle diesels...rotella t was designed for 2-cycles with turbos...

[chessie6.5]

I've used Mobil 1300 series 15W40 in all my diesel cars and trucks, (except Jetta) since late 80's. One problem with spending the extra money for synthetics is that the natural soot build up in the oil negates extended oil changes which is supposed to be ONE of the main benefits of synthetics. Once the soot reaches the saturation point, rapid wear starts to occur, especially between rings and cylinder walls.

[M123KT-450]

So then the conventional oils have better soot control ?

Or

Synthetics have better soot control ?


Mike

[Garth J]

Neither one has soot control thats why you change oil frequently on these engines
On my D-max the oil is still clean after 5000 miles ....different combustion process

[rooferwill]

alright garth quit braggin on your duramax, we know it is awesome:cool:

[Garth J]

My wife says the driver is too...

[rooferwill]

ya my wife normally only lies to me in bed though. jk

[trukdoc]

...mobil is not a synthetic oil...

[synthetic-oil]

www.syntheticoils.us/Files/Article%20from%20Lube%20Report%20on%20Royal%20Purp le.pdf

[M123KT-450]

:eek: I could have told ya that much :rolleyes: R-P = R I P diesel . . .

AMSOIL is what i have using and my truck hasn't had any oil system related issues plenty other issues tho :( but none from the oiling system :D


Mike

[sixnickel]

A few years back I was at a NAPA trade show and there was a Royal Purple booth set up there. I stood by and listened to the salesman give his dog and pony show to a few potential customers. He made it sound like this stuff was the best thing too come down the pike. He finally got to me and asked me what I worked on and I told him was the mechanic for a large fleet of lumber yard trucks and equipment with a lot of Macks and Internationals. He then got to what kind of lubricants I used. Here comes the funny part !! As soon as I told him that all the lubes I use are from Lubrication Engineers he did a complete 180. He said he was waisting his time talking with me and went to look for some other suckers to sell RP too. So when it comes to the best oil for a 6.5 or any engine as far as I am concerned LE is the only way to go!!
http:www.le-inc.com

[M123KT-450]

Ill have to give this LE stuff a looking at, I have also heard of shaffer ? Oil ? Not some thing to that effect mentioned quite a lot in relation to diesel engines.

I been using AMSOIL for so many years now I haven't really looked into any other brands for a while.

Many of the brands I turned down back when have reformulated the oils a few times since I switched from valvoline and casterol to AMSOIL.


Mike

[lpsaxman]

I started using Castrol 15w-40(green jug)and substituted 2 quarts for lucas oil additive. My oil leaks are minimal now. I can make my regular oil changes without adding oil in between. Engine runs great!

[JD_countryboy]

I used 2 cases of castrol, without lucas or other additives, and that will be the last. That left my engine faster than rotella did. The phrse "fill the oil and check the gas" (diesel in my case) was pretty true. Was addin oil with every diesel fillup. When rotella reformulated to its newest form, it aint as good either (in my opinion). I wont be puttin rotella in anymore of my stuff. Mobil delvac 1300 runs in my truck, not positive yet what ill be runnin my newly rebuilt 3020 Diesel after initial break in, my 85 plow truck will continue to get Mobil 1 synthetic, and gas tractors are gettin Pennzoil.

[M123KT-450]

Pennzoil ! Horrible rotten stuff I would rather run sand !


Mike

[JD_countryboy]

and what basis do you make that remark on? Screw your valveasludge (valvealine), quicker sludge (quaker state), havalotasludge (havoline), crapstrol (castrol). I have personaly had gasoline engines apart that have had these inferior oils in them.(except castrol, it went thru mine so fast i burned what i got a deal on and wont run it again) I will NEVER EVER put these inferior oils in any of my stuff.And will never recomend them either! Dad ran a buick century with the 3300 v-6 250,000 miles runnin penzoil. Never once a oil related issue, and when i dismantled the engine it was clean. No sludge or cruddy buildup. I have had other engines apart that strictly ran one of the other oils, and holy CRUD!!! I took an intake off a 95 350 and it had almost 2 inches of crude stuck to underside of intake, and you couldnt see the lifters in the valley. Valveasludge after 120,000 miles. ford 300 I6, 135,000 miles, rockerarm/ lifter noise, still poor running after tuneup. Crud buildup on most everything. Needed rocker arms, pushrods, and a couple lifters, Guy decided to just get a junkyard engine and drop in, ran about 6 years and finally scrapped it cause body was junk. He's still not puttin quicker sludge in anything he owns. Havealotasludge was a ford tempo 4 cyl. So much sludge in oilpan it starved oil pump of oil, valve train noise and eventually rod knock. Guy had $$$ so he just junked the car. 146,000miles.

[M123KT-450]

Funny, when I worked in the quick lubes back in my high school days and every single pennzoil engine I saw was full of sludge and wax some so bad you had to dig out the oil fill holes to get oil into them.

Then in my later years tore down 3 engines that had Pennzoil there whole lives that got torn down from lack of oil pressure openned them up oil pick up was plugged with wax !

So you can run what you wish ill continue to run my AMSOIL and avoid Pennzoil.

I used Valvoline and GTX normally as break in flush out oils but have ran it in leakers for and logged in many trouble miles one engine I ran Havoline in it , It lived to 280K miles and was rebuilt broke in Valvoline then switch to AMSOIL !

So ill be sticking to my AMSOIL products myself.

EDIT:
I have found running the AMSOIL synthetic very cost effective in the 6.5er, between the extended drain intervals and the break downs i hardly have to change it :cool: wonderful truck love it to death :rolleyes:

Mike

[Garth J]

Amsoil or any other type still has to be changed about every 5000 miles because these engines generate a lot of soot.
If not you will pay in the long run ...G

[M123KT-450]

5,000 miles ? Really ? . . .

I been running 9,000 miles with fresh oil filter and a top off every 3,000 Miles.


Mike

[rooferwill]

I have seen newer engines filled with sludge and crud too but most of the time it is from not doing oil changes correctly(warm engine to make sure oil flows good), incorrect weight of oil( too thick a oil sitting in top of head and cannot drain back down quickly enough), and too many miles in between oil changes( after 10k conventional oil just doesn't flow all that well).

[Garth J]

5,000 miles ? Really ? . . .

I been running 9,000 miles with fresh oil filter and a top off every 3,000 Miles.


Mike

Its your engine Mike besides you said you had parked it in the tullies so whats really happening with your truck

[trukdoc]

...you want I can prove 30million, yes million road miles at 25000\30000mi interval oil and filter changes on an over the road fleet with NO lubrication related failures with mobil delvac 1300super 15w40....jd... all new and everything purchased to run in fleet got switched to mobil..all used truks got a bearing roll in and fresh mobil to join fleet...and that's using baldwin filters.....

[M123KT-450]

Its your engine Mike besides you said you had parked it in the tullies so whats really happening with your truck

:( Currently its down and out still :mad: I ordered the transmission parts for it a few weeks ago i have them here was going to work on it this week end :cool: but i got let go yesterday so i am officially out of work :o

So i guess it'll remain parked for now . . .


Mike

[carhauler]

I use Rotella T 15W40 in just about every diesel we have including our old 6.5 Suburban. Only exception is our motorhome with a Series 60, amd that gets Delvac 15W40 Synthetic for a little better fuel mileage. Also like "Lubricating Engineers" oil and lubricants but they're hard to find locally.

Good source on oil is: bobistheoilguy.com. You'll definitely find the answer on oil and lubricants.

[1962beachboy]

Had diesels in the family for 45 years. 671's, Cats, Benz, Olds and a 6.5. Only used Delo in all of 'em.. That started with the 671's (250's) in our boat that was serviced at the Chevron (Then Standard Oil) Dock. Never had one oil related issue in any of them and some of these engines were run hard and put away wet. I run the 15-40 Delo 400 (available at Costco) with an AC or K&N filter.. We did an oil filter test in High School vocational auto shop. At the time (many years ago) the AC filter was the best at flow and minimum particle passage (10-15 microns) of the 8 or 9 available filters.. Filtering results were analyzed by a lab. The Wix was the worst, Fram in the middle. That was then.. More exotic filters were not available at the time.. Read up about oil, Mobil had an article on line that explained the diff between common engine oils, the more highly refined class (Rotella and Delo) and synthetics.. Mobil should know.. They created the synthetic category.. I run Mobil One in ALL gas engines period and have gotten some really amazing results.. Happy Motoring!

[M123KT-450]

The best brand type weight of oil is all up to the driver/owner/maintainer really.

I been using AMSOIL, So ill continue to do so . . . I put my truck back on the road after fixing the transmission, then it developed a fuel leak so it got parked a while again and is now being repaired my oil is over a year old only got 2,000 miles on it truck fires right up and pressurizes great and holds fantastic and stable pressure so I'm still being impressed with AMSOILs performance.



Mike

[Chevylover]

The best brand type weight of oil is all up to the driver/owner/maintainer really.

I been using AMSOIL, So ill continue to do so . . . I put my truck back on the road after fixing the transmission, then it developed a fuel leak so it got parked a while again and is now being repaired my oil is over a year old only got 2,000 miles on it truck fires right up and pressurizes great and holds fantastic and stable pressure so I'm still being impressed with AMSOILs performance.

Mike



Or what you could get in your area ! All oil types you can get here in every parts shop will not provide enough oilpressure for the old 6.5.I used enough of them. Normal cars, no problem, but not for the need of the old 6.5. The best oil I could get is the Lucas 15W-40 HD with a "shot" of 3 bottles of Lucas HD Stabilizer. This combo works good on my truck.


Cu,
Sven