smokes when starting what could it be?

[kylejoedirtday]

I have a 95 K2500 Just put in new AM general long block with forged crank, ssdieselsupply performance cam, balenced rotating assembly, new marine injectors, ssd fast glow plugs, reman d-tech ip, ho water pump, electric cooling fans, ssd fsd heat-sync w/#9 resistor, ssd 80hp chip, ssd air induction kit, new rotomaster turbo, new vac pump, new wastegate silenoid, all the proper gauges, double staked lift pump, rewire so ops runs relay and relay runs fuel pump, all new fuel lines, new tank strainer and sending unit, ssd cooling upgrade kit,and more i can't think of. when I start the truck in 90 degree wheather i get a large puff of grey and then black smoke folled by a few stutters and more smoke. after a min of running runs great, some times will do it after engine is still at running temp but not always, i just spent ALOT of money on this engine becouse it is what i want and there is not another one like it to close around, i would just like to get it to stop smokeing on startup. I have tried hooking up to heavy load to seat rings it did not help any. these trucks do not like to tug around 25,000lbs loads, but figured it should work the engine pretty good and seat rings. Any thoughts or help would be much apprieciated.
Thank you.

[M123KT-450]

:eek: All engines have a break in period where they are not to be used at maximum capacity :rolleyes:

"Drive it easy for the first 5,000 miles work it easy for till 9,000-12,000 miles all smoking will be done by 15K miles"

where the instruction given to me when inquired about a new 6.5 then i got told a replacement is $7,500 and a rebuild is $4,500 . . . i told the guy no thank's, for that kind of cash i can get a by far better engine and hung up the phone :eek: :D


Mike

[trukdoc]

...miles/hours on your new engine???what is the outside ambient air temperature???ALL DIESELS SMOKE ON START UP...deal with it...a little or a lot depends on what type and quality of fuel,ambient temperatures,condition of engine,etc.so on and so forth...glow-plugs only heat the pre-chamber to raise combustion temp. for starting...they cycle after startup to help engine reach operating temp...untill you reach operating temp{@ 100-120*f} you'll have a small amount of white or gray smoke...this is normal...as outside temps go down smoke will take longer to go away...if your engine was properly assembled and survived startup and initial drive around the block with no problems then it's "broke in"enough to work the s*** out of it...jd

[kylejoedirtday]

I had 1500 miles on when i Tried towing to seat rings, now i have 2000 on it. The smoke i can live with but the fact of the stutter right before the smoke rolls out the second time bothers me alot. gonna try the rewire so lift pump runs with glow plug cycle, see if ip just needs primed better before start. Also what oil pressure should it be running with this block old one did not have oil squirters. I am running 70 at idle through full rpm cold, but at running temp i have 30 at idle and 40-50 at full rpm?

I wish i only spent $7500 on this engine but adding everything up i bought that is on the engine or for the engine i spent more like 15. better to do now before marrige than try to explain to a wife why i needed these things.

as far as break in i was always told do initial startup breakin, drive 500 miles varying the rpm, then beat the piss out of it by towing more than you think you will ever tow.

[M123KT-450]

:eek: $15K :eek: . . .

Mike

[grancito]

Hot oil pressure is normal, cold is high, are you using 30 grade oil instead of 15w-40? Is the first smoke white or blue, raw fuel or burnt oil? The black smoke is excessive fuel, it can happen just after firing up due to a slow start flooding the cylinders with fuel. If it hicups while running, then blows black smoke, the IP is sticking, put some additive in the fuel.

[JD_countryboy]

What brand OPS do you have? What gauge you lookin at for oil pressure, stock in dash, or mechanical aftermarket? Sounds to me like your ops is not working properly, and you are having a short term fuel shortage to IP. Bad ops will still operate gauge in dash, but wont operate lift pump correctly. A bad ops can also cause erradic oil pressure readings. I had cold oil pressure readings over 80. but hot was like 40. Put a mechanical gauge on it, and wasnt close to what dash said. Changed ops and, now both gauges are within 5psi at all times, and never over 60psi

How did you wire twin lift pumps to your relay? Lift pump must run while engine cranking, and is controlled by seperate ign switch terminal and a seperate relay. Once oil pressure comes up the ops alone will run lift pump. If you dont have lift pump(s) running while cranking, you are starving ip of fuel on startup. Fuel pressure in theses pumps will affect timing. Check fuel filter for air, air in lines/filter housing will cause you problems too.

Can i ask why you stacked lift pumps? Just curious. Sounds like you do have a nice, one of a kind truck though.

Oh yea, was always told easy first 500, then turn it loose.

[kylejoedirtday]

ops switch is the one that came with Am General long block. The double staked lift pumps is becouse i cant find any diesel leaks or get any air coming up from lift pumps but only have 4 psi at idle and 1/2-1 psi at full rpm. the second pump is plumbed in line behind the carter replacment pump( two identical pumps), it is wired with a toggle in the cab fed off wire from factory lift pumb feed wire( so when I need it i use it when i dont i dont). cut grey wire from ops ran to a relay so points in ops only have to close relay not run lift pump. will be adding diodes so lift pump will run with glow plug cycle. oil gauge i am reading is factory in dash, working on putting in mechanical gauge under hood to compare to.

smoke starts white and turns grey then black within a second, smoke comes out in short bursts only 2 or 3 times then not again till next time i start it, maybe it doesnt always do it. it also doesnt matter if it is cold, warm, or hot.

as far as price, thats a three year slowly buying parts till it came to the long block, then i pissed the ol lady off when i refinnaced the house to buy truck parts(way more important than fixing the house or paying for a wedding). was only planning on buying longblock but figured might as well make everything new. should of bought a drop in am general(after thought).

I run howes in every tank (1/2 bottle) becouse it is best thing sold in my small town. should i use something else to lube ip better?

I use rotell 15-40 oil, only one worth paying for.

[kylejoedirtday]

ops switch is the one that came with Am General long block. The double staked lift pumps is becouse i cant find any diesel leaks or get any air coming up from lift pumps but only have 4 psi at idle and 1/2-1 psi at full rpm. the second pump is plumbed in line behind the carter replacment pump( two identical pumps), it is wired with a toggle in the cab fed off wire from factory lift pumb feed wire( so when I need it i use it when i dont i dont). cut grey wire from ops ran to a relay so points in ops only have to close relay not run lift pump. will be adding diodes so lift pump will run with glow plug cycle. oil gauge i am reading is factory in dash, working on putting in mechanical gauge under hood to compare to.

smoke starts white and turns grey then black within a second, smoke comes out in short bursts only 2 or 3 times then not again till next time i start it, maybe it doesnt always do it. it also doesnt matter if it is cold, warm, or hot.

as far as price, thats a three year slowly buying parts till it came to the long block, then i pissed the ol lady off when i refinnaced the house to buy truck parts(way more important than fixing the house or paying for a wedding). was only planning on buying longblock but figured might as well make everything new. should of bought a drop in am general(after thought).

I run howes in every tank (1/2 bottle) becouse it is best thing sold in my small town. should i use something else to lube ip better?

[grancito]

Don't worry about the smoke, just a startup fuel no burn problem, could be from slow cranking, or valve lifters leaking down, it may go away in time.

[JD_countryboy]

You dont have enough fuel pressure at all. If your lift pump closest to your ip isnt working correctly, then the second has to work way harder to try and push the fuel thru the non working pump. Could be causeing a problem, since they are inline of each other. you would be better off running them in paralell instead of in series. How do know when to run the extra pump with the switch? you have a fuel pressure gauge? Dou your lift pumps run when cranking? if no lift pump while cranking that wsill affect the way truck starts., specially since your ip will then be tryin to suck fuel thru 2 pumps.

[kylejoedirtday]

thank you to all for taking time to read my problems and respond!!!

My fuel pump is running while cranking builds 3-4 psi till it starts, once started drops to 0 for less than a second and then goes back up to 3-4. I turn on the second pump when i plan on working the engine or for heavy acceleration. sould be running when cruising at 60 cause i only have 1-2 psi, but when i slow down with it on it has 10 psi at idle(told it is to high for this ip). I do have a fuel pressure gauge plumed in between Filter and ip with tube ran to gauge in dash. Also wondering when engine shuts off sometimes pressure bleeds off should this happen or should it hold pressure?

Thought maybe injectors but it did it on two sets of new marine injectors, one set from ssdiesel that had 1000-1500 miles on old moter, and now on brand new set marine injectors from pininsular diesel.

[JD_countryboy]

what kinda pressure you have when engine off, and you only flip the second pump on? And how old are both of the lift pumps? Little smoke on startupp is nuthing, the stuttering, and stumbling is. Next time you start it, try and turn your second lift pump on, while gp on, and leave it on while you start engine, and see what happens, and what fuel presure does.

[kylejoedirtday]

O.K. finealy got back to workin on the truck. with the new resistors in LP kicks on with glow plugs. With the engine off when i turn the key to cycle glow plugs fuel pressure gets to 15 psi drops a little until i start cranking and goes back up. once it fires it drops to 0 psi then jumps to 8-9 psi while idleing. still sputters. with the second pump switch off during glow cycle builds to 6-7 psi drops to 5 until i crank then goes up to 6-7 and once started drops to 0 psi then builds to 4-5 psi at idle also sputters. at full rps 1 psi with out second pump 4-5 psi with second pump.

[JD_countryboy]

how long is the 0psi ? If you have 1 pump always on (toggle switch on as in your first scenario) you should never drop to 0psi. Are you using B+ for toggle switch power? How long does it sputter for? Are you sure the carter pumps are rated to flow enough fuel? something sounds odd, for sure. You shouldnt have any fuel presure issues with all new parts, and no leaks. Have you checked for air in the fuel filter again lately? Still sounds like when your dropin to 0psi, your ip is suckin air into the fuel system from someplace. This is a thought, are you sure you hooked the suction and return lines to correct port on the tank sending unit? and same goes for line connections up to the filter housing? if backwars, you will have no return restrictions, but will be resricting the fuel flow to the pumps. and they suck from different places in the fuel tank.