wastegate actuator?

[daustin]

Hi there guys,
I'm in the process of sorting out my '93 3500 6/5 TD dually and have a question on the wastegate actuator. I read in the '93 FSM (i have all the books for my newly aquired '93 because i bought a '93 1500 new and still have it, 205,000 miles and still going...) that to test the actuator you pull it and it should snap back into position. I messed with mine a little, and it "sticks" in the pulled position. In a '93 i think that's spring operated, correct? Reading other posts it appears that i need to get a boost guage and set it not to exceed 15psi? I'd like to get some aux guages, boost, trans temp (4L80E in mine) and EGT.
Any thoughts on testing the actuator? Thanks ya'll.
Don

[christja]

Mine is a 95 and when i have the motor running the wastegate is pulled closed. when i pulled the vac tube off it relaxes back open. I Spray mine with actuator and the joints with wd-40 just to make sure it keeps moving. You might try that.

[daustin]

On my '93 there's no vacumn hoses to the Aactuator, i also don't have the vacumn pump. I think those started in '94, mine looks to be a spring only.
Don

[sixnickel]

I have never worked on a mechanical waste gate control but I would say that the spring holds the gate shut and as boost builds up it pushes the gate open like a pressure control valve. The more the spring pressure the more boost pressure. If when you pull it open by hand and it sticks open, that could be a issue. You could be moving in to a position that normally it does not travel that far into, thats why it's hanging up. Do you have a problem? Low power, black smoke? The only way to know whats going on with boost is with a boost gauge. EGT gauge I say is a must also so you can get a complete picture of whats going on. If you tow or plow snow or off road then you should go for a transmission temp gauge also. Regular over the road ues you can get away without one, I don't one in my rigs. Hope this helps.

[daustin]

Thanks for the input, i've only had it for a couple of weeks so i'm not up on the thing yet. My 4L80E is acting up a little, i'm going to replace the shift soloniods & TPS and go from there. Last time i drove it more than 5 miles it didn't seem to have the power i thought it should have so that's why i'm looking at the actuator. Wife was following me, and she said it was spewing some black smoke when i tried to run it over 2500rpm and didn't climb the hills very well. I've changed all the filters except the fuel filter and that's next, cleaned it up good as the previous owner ran a lawn service and it was really nasty. Pretty nice looking now, i'll post some pics soon. The actuator looks totally mechanical to me, there may be some soot around the valve as i don't think the thing was driven anywhere but around town for years before i got it. I'll spray the spring area liberally with some WD or something, and see if that makes it snap back like the factory service manual states. IF i can't get it to, guess i'll replace it.
Don

[daustin]

Yesterday i had some time and i sprayed the crap out of the spring end and it still sticks open. I've got some other work to do on it soon, damn thing started dripping coolant over the starter when it's warm. I'm hoping it's the freeze plug seeping behind the starter, i looked pretty well with a shop light with it running and couldn't see any liquid from the head area or anywhere else. A few drops from the torque converter cover, but that might be just dripping off the starter. Damn i hope it's not the plug behind the flywheel, motor dosen't look easy to pull. I've got new SS Diesel glow plugs and tranny soloinds to install, if it's leaking anywhere except behind the starter i might as well pull the engine & trans. Can't pull the whole thing into my shop as the dually wheels won't go through the shop door. Guess i'll pull the front in and let the ass hang out worst case. Thanks for your help.
Don