messed up 93 6.5 td

[cjralph]

So, this is my first real post as I have been reading all the posts that may pertain to my issues. There is so much great information on here.
First I have a 93 Chevy 6.5 TD, K3500, single rear wheels, extended cab, long box, w/gooseneck hitch. (Love the gooseneck nothing pulls better.) 234,000 miles. I have had this truck for about 6 yrs., with only a few problems.
This last winter while using it to pull the mini excavator around, it began to show problems. It would start fine, I plug it in religiously, after about 5-10 min. at idle it would sputter and miss. Sometimes I could give it just a little higher idle and it would come out of it, sometimes not. I could crank it over and it would take just a little to pop off again like it got a little air. This would happen sometimes 3-4 times in a row, the same way. Once I get it to the open road and get moving, I kind of baby it a little, it would come out of it and be fine the whole rest of the day, even letting it set while at work for 8 hrs. I have had the tank down and cleaned, all new parts there, pick up hose, sending unit, all that, the old ones snapped off when i tried to remove them. I did the new lift pump, and new factory fuel line to the filter, new filter several times.
That stuff I can live with, gets frustrating though, but last week I started it and it acted like it was loading up with fuel. Started fine and idled fine for 8 min. and I tried to move it. I made it about 60 ft. and it started acting up again. This time though it was puffing lots of white smoke that smelled like lighter fluid on a BBQ when someone puts the lid on and snuffs the fire out before the fluid is all burnt up. Of course I was 3 miles from nowhere, with my partner in crime and no one else to call. So I checked under the hood (like I could tell anything from looking) and with out tools, I was forced to try to start it again. It smoked a lot, like a 007 smoke screen. It wasn't making any noises abnormal to the diesel except for a little miss. I have acquired a compression tester, and am planning on replacing the injectors and pump if all the cylinders are up to snuff.
I am looking for a word of encouragement in hopes that I am headed in the right direction. What is a good psi or is it OK if they are just all close to the same.
Any ideas on these issues, are they related.
BTW at first with the "air" problem it was helped by leaving the fuel cap loose.

[oldyeller6.5]

sounds like a bad injector to me, mine misses like that on the number 7 cylinder in the cold mornings, new glow plugs made it worse cuz i dont plug it in till below 20 now but its almost summer so i already have the cords put away. i think you have a fully shot injector cuz mine has a really bad injector knock when its cold on low idle, like it lopes pretty bad, but it evens that out and is just a small miss once i kick it on high idle. and once moving sometimes it will act up in first not low, so technically 2nd but it will act up until op temp, but what i do is shift from there to 3rd really fast @ low rpms and gun it so it dumps a bunch of fuel so it lugs it and rolls coal and that always clears it up.

[cjralph]

I was going to change the IP and all the injectors now. Is this a good idea or is it a waste of money? I know it has more than 100,000 miles on these injectors, and pump. Is it true that the IP and injectors should be changed at the same time? What about the age of the engine? will it hurt to have upgraded injectors in it? What about marine injectors or lower pressure? I don't want to tear the engine down any further than I have to. I don't want to add too much to it and blow it apart.

[grancito]

DB2 IP that you have will last almost 400,000 miles. Mine has 260K with the fuel screw adjusted once and has no problems.

[cjralph]

:D that makes me a feel a little better that's a large expense i don't mind not making. That would leave enough for that 4" exhaust. Which leaves another question which would last longer for the money the aluminized steel or the stainless?
Thanks for all the good info.

[BeelzaBubba]

If you're just looking to keep your truck running dependably, stock injectors are more than enough. As far as exhaust, stainless will definitely last longer than the aluminized.

With the mileage you have, if you have not replaced the harmonic balancer, I suggest in replacing it. Suggested replacement is every 100K.

[cjralph]

Thanks, I tried to test the compression and pegged the gauge. 300 psi. didn't cut it, Oriellys' supper staff said it would work, and me trying to save a couple days not waiting on shipping thought I would try it. Luckily they took it back without question when I told them it wasn't high enough. So now I am supposed to get the new compression tester delivered today.
When I started the truck up to pull it into the shop though it didn't act up at all. Would it matter if it is parked on level ground or not as to how it would react? It sat about the same amount of time each time I have been using it lately. This time it was on level ground and sat for about 4 days. When I started it I had to tap on the glow plug relay it sticks (yes I am replacing it too) It cycled once I tried it and it popped right off without issue little rough still. I was able to get into the garage without it stalling, or smoking like crazy. I only let it idle for about 1 min.
Does an injector act up intermittently?

[cjralph]

So with all the kids 6, 4 and 10 months I am able to keep pretty buisy. lol
Any way I got the turbo off with the right extensions it was easy but the 6 hours before that was a pain. I was able to test all the compression in all the cylinders with #1 reaching 425psi. and the rest sticking around 410psi with 235,000 miles, this sounded OK to me. thoughts??? I am ready to get new GP and injectors, and install them I talked to the original owner and he had never touched the injectors so I think I could put the money in on another set if they'll last 100-200 K that would suite me just fine. I found the X-over pipe has a gap of about 2 inches on each side (maybe it is time for a new one). the down pipe is 3 inch but the weld at the end looks like crud I may still get the new 4" SSD exhaust just for the growl. Had to put in a new radiator the original was disintegrating on the outside copper fins.

[BeelzaBubba]

CJ- I'd be willing to bet that if the injectors were never changed the vibration damper on the crank was never changed either. Both are usually recommended to be done every 100k; I'd look at replacing that too since it's a whole lot cheaper than replacing a broken crank/engine.

[cjralph]

Ya, I forgot to mention that part I have been looking at parts at different sites for the last two days, and it kinda makes my head spin. I am replacing both the HB and the pulley that attaches to it, and the timing cover seal, while I am in there. They didn't look that bad but with all the horror stories and with everything out of the road. I am also getting the moog Pitman arm and idler arm and frame mount, it is all right there. I hope it comes out as easy as it looks from the top. I also have to replace the gp connectors as they didn't take the removal very well. The #1 injector line is really looking rusted can i change just that line? Can I do this without removing the intake/IP?
Thanks

[FloridaHorseman]

...
This last winter while using it to pull the mini excavator around, it began to show problems. It would start fine, I plug it in religiously, after about 5-10 min. at idle it would sputter and miss. Sometimes I could give it just a little higher idle and it would come out of it, sometimes not. I could crank it over and it would take just a little to pop off again like it got a little air. This would happen sometimes 3-4 times in a row, the same way. Once I get it to the open road and get moving, I kind of baby it a little, it would come out of it and be fine the whole rest of the day, even letting it set while at work for 8 hrs. Try replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor in the front crossover pipe. That will often cure a multitude of starting/idling ills. ~FH

[cjralph]

Try replacing the Coolant Temp Sensor in the front crossover pipe. That will often cure a multitude of starting/idling ills. ~FH

You know that is also on the list but I had a problem with that before and I just unplugged it and went on. One morning I started the truck and smoke started rolling out from under the hood, the electrical smelling kind, I thought the worst, jumped out and the plug on top of the CT sensor was melted in two. It ran fine without it, as far as I knew.
Does it only run the throttle step up actuator, or does it go to more than that?
I was going to order a gauge set up, the SSD one is a little cashy in my book so looking elsewhere I came across the Glow Shift. They don't have a 15 psi fuel gauge.
So I am thinking of installing a CJ engineered (homemade) idiot light to a 2-7 psi adjustable sending unit with a little LED flasher, and setting it to 3 psi. Just to let me know if that pesky lift pump it working.
Oh, I found a bolt missing in the carrier barring on the drive shaft and have to get that fixed too.
I think I am well past the nickle and dime stage and moving into the arm and leg area...:eek:

[FloridaHorseman]

The CTS does bump up the cold idle and also tells the glow plug controller when the engine is cold. The glow plugs on the '93 won't ignite if the engine temp is above 125F and sometimes leads to hard starting in high mileage/low compression engines. A manual glow plug override setup can help. On some later 6.5's the tranny will not shift into OD if the CTS is completely shot. If the CTS is just faulty and sends even erroneous readings it will not throw a code but still have downstream effects.

You're overall symptoms MAY be those of a failing IP. The mechanical DB2 IP's (on your '93) are notorious for crapping out with age. The housing expands when hot and it drops pressure to the injectors. Eventually you'll get a NO START when hot. Pouring water on the IP will usually get a hot one to start again. A worn timing chain could also be producing unburned fuel smoke & smell by putting the IP timing off.

With the age, mileage and unknown maintenance history of your '93 I'd probably start with CTS replacement, then injectors, then timing chain & gears and finally a new IP.

That should cover all your arms and legs... and even your first born child. ~FH

[trukdoc]

...changed the o-ring seal in base of filter housing where fuel heater goes in?...I chased a first start stumble,intermittant die,stumble for @6mths in the 4-by I had dropped tank-changed all fuel lines tank to filter and pump new lift pump and controller...got mad and let it sit buddy with the dually I have now figured he HAD to have a 4-by so we traded truks...second week{oh truk ran great for him,at first}he calls and said he was chasing a diesel smell and found valley full of fuel...we drained it and jumpered the fuel pump relay and fuel ran from filter housing..o-ring was hard and cracked...changed it and truk runs great...no more problem...so simple a fix after I spent time and money over thinking the problem...jd

[cjralph]

So, it has been a while but still working hard, is there anyway to add another day to the weekend two is just not enough to get it all done.
Yesterday, I finally cut the last bolt off the drivers side exhaust manifold. It had a hold the size of a dime in it just above the lower collar. It has so much more corrosion on that side than the passenger. I found one at a local salvage yard for $150 removed.
Now I can start putting on all the new parts I got. I already installed the new timing chain, gears and water pump. I found the WIF sensor and the fuel heater bad in the separator, I found a new take off at Peninsular for around $90 shipped a hundred less than anyone else, ya I know they are hooked up with that other site but $$$ talks and I don't have much.
I will be working getting the studs out of the turbo side manifold tonight, so I don't have to take it off. Why didn't GM use bolts on the exhaust instead of studs have they not seen these after about 10 years and the condition they are in just use bolts cut them off if you need and replace them, DUH:rolleyes:
Back to work:cool:

[JD_countryboy]

Glowshift makes a 30psi fuel pressure gauge. I have one, not yet installed in my truck. 0-15 would be nicer, but after seeing the 0-30 in person its not a bad looking gauge. It does full sweep, so that helps. Numbered every 5 psi, dash for every psi.
Part number GS-T711_30

[cjralph]

I got the truck to start yesterday and took it out for a spin. the gauges from Glowshift worked great and looked pretty cool but they may get annoying, right there in your face, we'll see.
I had some issues getting the thing running, still working on it. But to hear the 4" exhaust and the turbo whine, it gives me shivers:D. The problem lies in the fuel somewhere:confused:. On the test run it died after 2miles:mad:. The fuel pressure went from 8 to 0 and started acting weird. The oil pressure went from 40 to 10 scarred me there. I took it real slow and easy I just changed the oil and yes I stopped and looked didn't see any puddles or hear anything, not even a lifter noise.
What else do you do? I limped it back home, it died again. The fuel psi didn't even go up when I was cranking. I let it idle in the drive before I put it back into the garage. It has a hiccup during idle every so often kind of regular hard to explain. I installed a new OPS, I will be checking this out tonight. The LP was working while I was trying to bleed the injector lines, and holding 8-9 PSI for 2 days without losing any.
I am at a loss as to what else to look at.

[FloridaHorseman]

I got the truck to start yesterday and took it out for a spin. the gauges from Glowshift worked great and looked pretty cool but they may get annoying, right there in your face, we'll see.
I had some issues getting the thing running, still working on it. But to hear the 4" exhaust and the turbo whine, it gives me shivers:D. The problem lies in the fuel somewhere:confused:. On the test run it died after 2miles:mad:. The fuel pressure went from 8 to 0 and started acting weird. The oil pressure went from 40 to 10 scarred me there. I took it real slow and easy I just changed the oil and yes I stopped and looked didn't see any puddles or hear anything, not even a lifter noise.
What else do you do? I limped it back home, it died again. The fuel psi didn't even go up when I was cranking. I let it idle in the drive before I put it back into the garage. It has a hiccup during idle every so often kind of regular hard to explain. I installed a new OPS, I will be checking this out tonight. The LP was working while I was trying to bleed the injector lines, and holding 8-9 PSI for 2 days without losing any.
I am at a loss as to what else to look at.OK...just gonna spitball a few ideas here.

Even if the LP fails while the engine is running the IP should still be able to pull enough fuel to keep running. But with 235k on it, the IP, a DB2, may be too worn to keep up pressure. But the IP will usually give you other warnings; hard hot starts or failing to start when hot. So I'd start looking for either an air leak (fuel manager filter seals, top and bottom), a fuel line obstruction (clogged filter sock on the pick up tube in the tank or tank debris entering the LP) or a clogged fuel return line to the tank creating tank vacuum the LP and/or IP cannot pull against. Try driving with the fuel cap loose and see what happens.

As for the erratic oil pressure... does it only occur as the engine is stalling (hiccup) or do you see fluctuation all of the time? If it's in conjunction with the stall, the OPS may be doing its job shutting off the LP when the oil pressure falls below a certain limit. Even a "new" OPS can be bad out of the box. Try replacing with AC Delco part. Or run a hot wire to the LP from another circuit connected to the Key ON position to test for consistent fuel pressure.

Extreme possibility is the oil pump is failing. But they usually just quit. ~FH

[cjralph]

FH, thanks for the spitball,:eek:, I appreciate the ideas cause I'm about out of them.
I replaced the fuel water separator, with a new take off from a marine engine place. The fuel pressure gauge is between the LP and the FM, the gauge read the exact pressure for two days sitting without me playing with anything, I suppose the leak in the line could be before the LP, does the LP work as a check valve or something??
The truck runs fine when there is pressure at the IP. I know it may be weak but after $2800 worth of parts in the last month funds are running dry, and thought I could get by with it for now.
I have been running the fuel cap loose for two years now, I replaced the sock along with the whole hose assembly in the tank about two years ago. I didn't replace the return line, or the feed line from tank to LP yet, I guess it could be in there.
If I get the LP to run though this seems to circumvent the issue, is that OK or will it mess up something in there.
I will troubleshoot the OPS tonight to see about loose connection, or bad switch, BTW it is a AC.
The oil gauge always read steady before, but I put the new OPS on there to make sure that it wasn't the issue with the LP. I feel I am running in circles:confused:
Thanks again for the help,
Chris

[FloridaHorseman]

FH, thanks for the spitball,:eek:, I appreciate the ideas cause I'm about out of them.
I replaced the fuel water separator, with a new take off from a marine engine place. The fuel pressure gauge is between the LP and the FM, the gauge read the exact pressure for two days sitting without me playing with anything, I suppose the leak in the line could be before the LP, does the LP work as a check valve or something??
The truck runs fine when there is pressure at the IP. I know it may be weak but after $2800 worth of parts in the last month funds are running dry, and thought I could get by with it for now.
I have been running the fuel cap loose for two years now, I replaced the sock along with the whole hose assembly in the tank about two years ago. I didn't replace the return line, or the feed line from tank to LP yet, I guess it could be in there.
If I get the LP to run though this seems to circumvent the issue, is that OK or will it mess up something in there.
I will troubleshoot the OPS tonight to see about loose connection, or bad switch, BTW it is a AC.
The oil gauge always read steady before, but I put the new OPS on there to make sure that it wasn't the issue with the LP. I feel I am running in circles:confused:
Thanks again for the help,
Chris
From what you say it seems more likely it's a LP/OPS issue. The LP is actually your electric fuel pump. There's none in the tank itself. And with the fuel pressure gauge between the LP and the FM, sudden zero pressure tells me the LP is quitting. Thus the suggestion to power it with a known 12v supply from the IGN circuit instead of the OPS. BUT.. that will circumvent the safety purpose of the OPS 12v feed to kill the pump when oil pressure goes away (1) to save destroying the engine by running with no oil pressure, and (2) to kill the fuel flow if there's a wreck.

Bad or intermittent ground for the OPS may also be a culprit. Check and clean every engine to chassis ground you can find. Especially the one on the rear passenger side intake manifold bolt. Also use a test light on the LP connector to find the hot lead from the OPS. Then cut THE OTHER WIRE... the ground wire... that runs back to the OPS and ground it instead to the frame rail. I mean the ground wire that comes out of the LP connector. Not the one coming from the OPS to the LP. If you still get hiccups in the oil pressure you might also try providing a separate solid ground for the OPS.

If you still lose fuel pressure with a separate 12v supply and independent ground to the LP that suggests the LP is bad. This may ultimately lead to a failing IP. But the LP and fuel pressure interruptions need to be tackled first. ~FH

[cjralph]

Bad or intermittent ground for the OPS may also be a culprit. Check and clean every engine to chassis ground you can find. Especially the one on the rear passenger side intake manifold bolt. Also use a test light on the LP connector to find the hot lead from the OPS. Then cut THE OTHER WIRE... the ground wire... that runs back to the OPS and ground it instead to the frame rail. I mean the ground wire that comes out of the LP connector. Not the one coming from the OPS to the LP. If you still get hiccups in the oil pressure you might also try providing a separate solid ground for the OPS.

If you still lose fuel pressure with a separate 12v supply and independent ground to the LP that suggests the LP is bad. This may ultimately lead to a failing IP. But the LP and fuel pressure interruptions need to be tackled first. ~FH[/QUOTE]

So, I found a leak in the supply line between the LP and the tank. I fixed that with a new line, while fixing that the return line got snagged and started leaking, so I have a new line there as well. I attached an extra ground to the LP as suggested, and have replaced all grounds to the engine/body/chassis that there are, even to the fuel fill neck, and the trailer hookups (had to install new 7-way plug anyway).
Now, I have a new LP that works and pressurizes and has lots of flow. The truck is now starting fine and will run for a while with pressure at the fuel pressure gauge. when it gets to about 120 on the factory temp gauge the oil pressure and the fuel pressure drop till the whole thing cools below 120 and then everything is fine. The 120 is a proximity only had time to check it twice looking for something to blame it on, to check next.
If I hook 12V to the LP the truck works fine. I tried the OPS solenoid deal, no help there, it is like when it gets hot the electric switched off. I really didn't want to bypass the OPS. I wanted to install a solenoid to the same wire that shuts off when the engine is not running for an automatic shut off for the 12V aux. to the trailer, so it would only be on with the engine running to not drain the batteries,:cool: but with this problem I aint starting that project
I have connected a temporary light to the OPS small LED to show when it has power. I know now that when the thing heats up it shuts it off somewhere.

Is there anyone that has a schematic on a '93 6.5, I have the one in the Haynes but it is worthless on the '93 diesel end:mad:, it starts at '94 for the diesel's and not much is the same due to the ECM.

[FloridaHorseman]

IIRC, this problem started when you changed the old OPS for a new one. Have you tried going back to the old OPS? You may have gotten a bad OPS. It's not unheard of. You may also want to run a second ground from the OPS to the same new GOOD ground you have for the LP and see if that cures the problem. And out of curiosity, what oil pressure is indicated at failure in conjunction with the 120f temp reading? ~FH

[cjralph]

Partly, I had stalling issues prior to any tinkering and have installed the Fuel pressure gauge since and the light. I damaged the old OPS getting it out not the right socket.
The oil pressure is around 10 or so at 120.
Where would I hook up the ground to the OPS? isn't it grounded to the block when it is screwed in? should I clamp a wire to the base?

[FloridaHorseman]

Partly, I had stalling issues prior to any tinkering and have installed the Fuel pressure gauge since and the light. I damaged the old OPS getting it out not the right socket.
The oil pressure is around 10 or so at 120.
Where would I hook up the ground to the OPS? isn't it grounded to the block when it is screwed in? should I clamp a wire to the base?The temp gauge on my '93, '94 & '98 all start at 160f. How are you arriving at the 120f reading? And how much blow-by are you getting from the oil filler tube? Smoke in the exhaust?

I'd try one more OPS and see what pressure reading you get when it warms up. If it still drops to 10# and cuts out I'd say your oil pump is shot and the OPS/ LP cut-off is doing its job. ~FH

[cjralph]

The temp gauge starts at 100 and peaks at 260, and it is around the first notch past 100. but the marks don't line up with the center mark being 210f, so I am really guessing at the 120 I don't have the actual temp.
I picked up a new OPS tonight but will be till after tomorrow for install.
Thanks for all the help
Chris

[cjralph]

OK, this is it I found it!!!!!!:D:mad:
I just changed the filter sock and rinsed the fuel tank out with diesel, I didn't know what else to use to not harm tank. This was about 2 1/2 years ago around February, I thought this would be good in this amount of time:confused:. Boy was I wrong.
741 742
Here is the strainer, and the fuel I poured out of the tank, into a 20 gallon tote.
737 738 739
This is why, the bottom of the tank looks good. That was a new tank assembly not too long ago.

When I drained and lowered the tank to change the lines I checked the fuel that I pumped out and it looked really clean, so I didn't even think that this would have been the issue????

My theory: Pump would prime and fill lines and pressurize, engine would start run and till it sucked the fuel out, then lost pressure. The truck would be just getting warmed up and showing 120'. I just wasn't looking for that thinking it was something I recently changed. I even looked for flow and pressure from the WIF discharge line, just not long enough duration of testing time.

I have ordered a new tank, tank assembly, and will install a new filter when it all gets here.

Thanks everybody I didn't think that the condition of the tank would deteriorate that quickly.
Chris

[FloridaHorseman]

Holy crap! Literally.... I briefly thought obstruction between the tank and LP but you said you'd been in there not long ago. I guess that's what happens when the fuel cap is left loose for so long. Glad you found it. Certainly less expense and trouble than a IP. ~FH

[Dieseltech]

I would say you have bad injectors, I just replaced my injectors today, it was like day and night. My truck started acting like it was pulling a semi up a hill when it was empty. Had a lot of black smoke from over fueling. I would recommend replacing them soon, you could wash a piston out if you let it go to long. Replacing injectors only takes about 3-4hrs.

[cjralph]

Thanks everyone!!
I now have 8 psi. until I get into the pedal. The 4" exhaust sounds awesome Love it. The glowshift gauges are good enough, they could change the angle of the gauges and not have the lowest one hitting the dash. They do look neat and the kids like the different color lights.
I thought I had problems with the new GPC but it ended up being the connector on the wiring.
I still think I may have problems with the new OPS, but at least it is running now. when the truck warms up the oil pressure drops to around 15 at regular driving but when going from a stop and shifting up through the gears it builds pressure right back up around 30???
The list of parts is long:
Radiator, Waterpump, Timing chain, Harmonic balancer and dampener, Oil seal, Moog pitman arm, Moog ps idler arm and frame mount, Glowplugs, Injectors, Drivers side exhaust manifold/used, Crossover exhaust, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust with muffler, Fuel manager/water separator, Oil pressure sensor/switch, Cold start switch, Cold start advance actuator, Glowshift a pillar triple gauge pod, 30 psi fuel gauge, 1200 deg EGT, 30 psi boost gauge, Lift pump, Fuel supply line, Fuel return line, Fuel tank, Fuel tank assembly, Center carrier barring, Rear u-joint. I was going to change the A/C condenser but they sent the wrong one. I also removed the air boot? to the air box
Thanks again everyone.
Chris

[jimclemjr]

cjralph-Just wondering what is your home area and history of keeping fuel in the tank? I am lightly chasing the hiccup Monster in my Sububan, have had a light case for years. I have tried to search the site and review all the inputs and different theories but your experience puts my focus to the tank deteroriation. I was pretty convinced in my case that an air bubble passing thru the pump is the cause. Theory is that if venting got closed then pump may pull air into line thru bad hose connection, cracked line or something. I had thoughts that the venting could be a potential cause but when I ran the fuel cap loose it was the worst hiccups in years. I wonder if the tank debris is causing some clogging? I have a 5 foot snake camera and I am going to try to put it in my tank to inspect the actual condition. Not trying to steal the thread as it looks basically closed, just asking for A little more of your experience. Thx for your good input on findings.

[trukdoc]

...engine valley for fuel asin bottom o-ring in filter assembly leaking/sucking air...air bubbles passing optic sensor in pump will cause hic-cups...

[cjralph]

I am in Nauvoo, IL. I get my fuel from three different places usually depending on where I am. They are pretty well managed truck stops, I like the bigger spouts on the pumps quick filling:) I usually keep the tank 1/2 full or more. The venting is still an issue I installed a new stant?? fuel cap diesel with the twist vent, which could be the problem again. It runs out and starts fine. The fuel pressure gauge is about 8 when moving and hit WOT it goes down to like 3 then back up when I let off. I may still have electrical issues (yes I cleaned every ground I found and replaced some and added new ones too), but after about 20 minutes of driving the Fuel pressure drops to 2 psi or so. Then check the tank cap and there is air sound when opened. This could be pressure or vacuum I can't tell yet which it is. I haven't had the time to check if I have good fuel pressure after that. I would try checking, at about 1/4 tank the capacity of the fuel flow from the water drain line to see what amount of fuel comes out after pumping for a while. The time may be hard to close in on because the difference of continual pumping and when the engine is running and using fuel intermittently. You should have a steady stream/flow while you are pumping into a bucket, it may have to pump a lot of fuel to check this way. The alternative is to drop the tank, or use your snake cam. I used a fishing cam with a stick when I got the tank down to inspect the inside. The flakes inside my tank looked like the gold flake in that Goldschlager, except silver.

[cjralph]

You know this 93' is quite different than most others out there. I forgot about the Optical sensor on the electronic IPs. I really like that there are not many ECM things on this one. It has the manual trans so no vacuum pump, manual IP so no PDM, there are really only three man controllers on here. GPC, OPS, and cold start switch, everything else is manual.

[trukdoc]

...was replying to jimclmjr? HE has a 95...beast is a 93 and had fuel leak at lower filter o-ring that dropped rail pressure under heavy load.same,same new ops,lift pump,etc. finally checked this AFTER my 94 4by shut down after dumping enuf fuel to tell where it was coming from.don't get me started on what all I replaced on that truk looking for intermittant shutdown/lo-power issues always ran good for me and alwaysALWAYS shutdown on my sweet wife{she sometimes reads these}

[cjralph]

...was replying to jimclmjr? HE has a 95...beast is a 93 and had fuel leak at lower filter o-ring that dropped rail pressure under heavy load.same,same new ops,lift pump,etc. finally checked this AFTER my 94 4by shut down after dumping enuf fuel to tell where it was coming from.don't get me started on what all I replaced on that truk looking for intermittant shutdown/lo-power issues always ran good for me and alwaysALWAYS shutdown on my sweet wife{she sometimes reads these}

I posted my first reply at the same time as your post and I was trying to apologize. I didn't quote to you and should have to avoid confusion. I just didn't look at the year, and I was trying to tell why I don't think of those problems with other models of tucks.
No harm no foul right.
thanks for your input.
sorry for the confusion.:confused: