Crank, but, No Start

[DIYORPAY]

I have been over this many times on another site, but cant seem to get to the bottom of it. I will start from the beginning.

3 or 4 weeks ago i went to the carwash and washed the truck and ended up spraying off the engine up top and down by the oil pan in front. After i left i didn't go far(6 blocks) and the truck sputtered and died. It restarted immediately and away i went. Later that day it did it once more. The next morning it didn't start. The next day it did. It ran fine going to work and at lunch i went to start it and nothing. (cranks , no start) So...... it got a ride home on a trailer and hasn't ran since.

This is what i did ................Checked batteries........Good Checked fuses.......one bad(fuel shut off) i found a shorted wire and fixed it and now it doesn't blow the fuse. I have plenty of fuel coming from the lift pump. I replaced the PMD. I cleaned all grounds and put dialectric grease on all connections. I wanted to check out the rest of the wiring cause i thought it was the problem, so i pulled the upper and lower intakes off to get the wiring harness out. Went through it wire by wire (fixed another wire that may have been bad). I cannot get any fuel out of the pressure side of the pump. I replaced the Injection pump wiring harness with a "tested" almost new one. I havn't replaced the crank position sensor yet, but was wondering if there was a way to test it???? I tried by-passing the Optic sensor by unplugging it(limp-mode). I removed the filter harness and plugged in directly. I am out of ideas.......................Anyone got any???? Thanks..............Brian

[njdevi11]

Well, two things to think about
(1) I heard somewhere that putting cold water on the injection pump might crack or damage it. I cant remember when/where but people do it when they have the warm start problem to cool it down in order to start it.

(2) Does the fuel solenoid click when you apply power to it? Does the db4 pump have a fuel solenoid like the db2 pump?

[DIYORPAY]

Not sure about the cold water. I think the truck was pretty cool before i sprayed it. The fuel solenoid does click when powered and i forgot to mention i tried a gutted solenoid also. What i really wanted to know was if i can test the Crank sensor with a volt or ohm meter. I replaced or went through almost everything else and didn't want to spend another $60-$70 if i didn't have to. From what i understand the inj. pump wont pump without a signal from the crank. Just trying to figure out if i could check for a signal????

[Chevylover]

Could be the crankshaft position sensor or a broken wire.

No CPS signal, no fuel at the pressure side of the IP, no start !

Any codes ? A defect CPS should give you a DTC 19 since you have OBD I in your 1995 truck.

Crankshaft Position Sensor (http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/product_105_Crankshaft_Position_Sensor.html)

Cu,
Sven

[John R]

I have been over this many times on another site, but cant seem to get to the bottom of it. I will start from the beginning.

3 or 4 weeks ago i went to the carwash and washed the truck and ended up spraying off the engine up top and down by the oil pan in front. After i left i didn't go far(6 blocks) and the truck sputtered and died. It restarted immediately and away i went. Later that day it did it once more. The next morning it didn't start. The next day it did. It ran fine going to work and at lunch i went to start it and nothing. (cranks , no start) So...... it got a ride home on a trailer and hasn't ran since.

This is what i did ................Checked batteries........Good Checked fuses.......one bad(fuel shut off) i found a shorted wire and fixed it and now it doesn't blow the fuse. I have plenty of fuel coming from the lift pump. I replaced the PMD. I cleaned all grounds and put dialectric grease on all connections. I wanted to check out the rest of the wiring cause i thought it was the problem, so i pulled the upper and lower intakes off to get the wiring harness out. Went through it wire by wire (fixed another wire that may have been bad). I cannot get any fuel out of the pressure side of the pump. I replaced the Injection pump wiring harness with a "tested" almost new one. I havn't replaced the crank position sensor yet, but was wondering if there was a way to test it???? I tried by-passing the Optic sensor by unplugging it(limp-mode). I removed the filter harness and plugged in directly. I am out of ideas.......................Anyone got any???? Thanks..............Brian

I had i simular problem a few months back it ended up being my crank sensor. I had it checked in a shop and no codes showed up to say that it was faulty.I replaced it: and when i did i noticed there were only about 2 to 3 strands of wire still connecting ! I hope this helps.

[DIYORPAY]

I ordered a crank sensor today(6 parts stores and 2 GM stealerships dont have it in stock) and it is supposed to be in tommorrow. I never did get a code 19. I think i almost have everything covered. If the crank sensor isn't it i suppose its time to get a new IP:( ....................Thanks for the help! I will keep you posted.

[w_huisman]

After replacing the CPS, be sure to get on a bi-di scanner and run the TIMESET and TDCOLearn funtions to reset the timing.

[DIYORPAY]

bi-di? Whats that and where will i have to go to get this done? Will that mess with a "Bumped" optic sensor?

[w_huisman]

bi-di = bi-directional... meaning: a scanner than can manipulate ECM programming, not just read codes.... meaning: you'll need to run the TIMESET and TDCOLearn functions (which manipulate ECM programming) to restore proper timing after changing the crank sensor. If TDCO does not fall within desired range of -0.5 to -1.94, you will need to rotate the pump and run these functions again. Best is to have a good buddy with a TECH 1 or TECH II scanner, or else make good friends with your local GM dealership.

You can sometimes get these read using a cheap scanner, you just can't change them. PM me with your ACTUAL/DESIRED timing and TDCO settings to save bandwidth, or search the forum here for specific time setting instructions. Once we know where you're at with these numbers, we'll know how to adjust and get them where they should be.

Good question about the optic bump. Though I suspect the answer to be "no", I suggest querying the information source at which you learned to do the optic bump in the first place for a more definite answer.

[DIYORPAY]

The crank sensor didn't work. So this weekend i swapped out the IP and i still have no fuel coming out the high pressure side of the pump:(
my ignition switch checks out as being good, the Fuel selonoid is good, all grounds are good, i have tried several different PMD's(all good), engine cranking speed is good, I guess Dynamite will be next!