instrument panel lights

[wiener]

I have recently bought a 1998 GMC K2500 Ext. cab truck. In addition to possible injection pump problems, I have discovered that my SES lamp and ABS brake lamp are out. Also according to the manual it seems that I should have a daylight running lamp warning that should come on if I forget to turn my lights on when it gets dark. I cant make that come on either. Its possible that someone disabled these or they are burned out.
According to the dealer there are no parts available and they are sent out for repair (syracuse NY or NJ he sais). Is it possible for me to replace these, he thinks there soldered in. Anybody ever try to repair? I did back in the late 80's but I not sure about know. Also I see my speedometer jumping around when I first start the truck. Any ideas?
Thanks in advance, Wiener

[Steeveo]

Pull the dash off and replace the bulbs. No big deal on that one. You only have to take the plastic off and I think there are only two screws holding the cluster inplace.

[wiener]

Thanks. Makes you kinda wonder why a GM parts manager wouldn't know that.
Should I be able to get them like at Auto Zone?
Wiener

[Steeveo]

yep, they're a standard bulb. the only ones you can not replace are the ones inside of the radio/stereo. They are affixed to a circut board within.

[LeadHead]

Our '98 Sub also has the "jumping speedometer" issue that you're describing, only when starting the truck. Does anyone have any advice for this problem?

[macertheracer]

when I was in tech school (Electronics Tech) we had a saying " keep it simple stupid":D . As an Electronics Tech I have seen a lot of other "tech's" make the biggest blunder of all. "it has to be in the magic black box" why? I ask, " because I don't understand what happens in there". the truth is simply this the black box does go bad, but always assume it is good until you put it on a tester, and prove otherwise. Automotive Electronics aren't that delicate, they are engineered to take a beating.
So with all of that said, here goes a shot at what I have seen before. in the early to mid '80's Ford did not properly groung theit motors. the groung for the starter had to go from the battery to the body, through the emergency brake cable, to the rear axel, through the drive shaft to the tran's, to the motor block, finally making it to the starter. As you would guess there was a weak link, the park brake cable would go up in smoke, that is how we finally found the mistake. solution? to follow
what we did was to find a bolt boss on the engine block, not on an accessory bracket, intake manifold, or exaust manifold, but directly from the battery to the block. Make sure there is no paint, oil, or other contanaments on either surface. make your connection, then seal it, with some spray paint.
from what you are explaining, I believe that you have a weak ground, that would give you all kinds of problems. also check all of your power connections, "red wires", from the battery to the firewall. good luck
the Racer:D

[macertheracer]

when I was in tech school (Electronics Tech) we had a saying " keep it simple stupid":D . As an Electronics Tech I have seen a lot of other "tech's" make the biggest blunder of all. "it has to be in the magic black box" why? I ask, " because I don't understand what happens in there". the truth is simply this the black box does go bad, but always assume it is good until you put it on a tester, and prove otherwise. Automotive Electronics aren't that delicate, they are engineered to take a beating.
So with all of that said, here goes a shot at what I have seen before. in the early to mid '80's Ford did not properly ground their motors. the ground for the starter had to go from the battery to the body, through the emergency brake cable, to the rear axel, through the drive shaft to the tran's, to the motor block, finally making it to the starter. As you would guess there was a weak link, the park brake cable would go up in smoke, that is how we finally found the mistake. solution? to follow
what we did was to find a bolt boss on the engine block, not on an accessory bracket, intake manifold, or exaust manifold, but directly from the battery to the block. Make sure there is no paint, oil, or other contanaments on either surface. make your connection, then seal it, with some spray paint.
from what you are explaining, I believe that you have a weak ground, that would give you all kinds of problems. also check all of your power connections, "red wires", from the battery to the firewall. good luck
the Racer:D

P.S. could be a diode going bad in the alternator, put your tester on AC and check the output from the alternator. If you see more than 1.5 volts right after startup. the reason right after startup? that is when the alternator has to work the hardest. this AC will drive a DC system crazzy, burn out electronics, lights, all kinds of wild shhhh...stuff going on.

[sixnickel]

Everybody thinks electronic thing works on electrons! WRONG they work on smoke. Do something wrong, let the smoke out and it does'nt work any more!!!