Motor Removal

[gumps10]

:o Ok, don't laugh to hard.

I know that for everything there is a procedure. I've been working on pulling the motor out of the new (to me) 95 Burb. (I only get about 1/2 hour or so every night to work on it) And I started thinking last night that there probably is a simple step by step provided to the service departments for engine removal. I.e. Remove this before that. I started to remember pulling my boat motor out a couple of years ago and there was a step by step. Made it a lot easier and also makes it go back together a lot easier:). This isn't new to me but I will say that the last 6.2 I pulled out had a lot less stuff hooked to it. (now that I say that I think there was a step by step in the gm service manual for the 82 Chevy pick up that I had).
Anyway if any one had that and could provide me with it that would be great.
Thanks in advance
Dave

[Craig]

steps as per my 1994 c/k truck GM service manual


Remove or disconnect

1. Neg batt
2. flywheel cover
3. flywheel or torq conv bolts
4. exhaust pipes at manifolds
5. starter
6. bell housing bolts
7. engine mnt through bolts
8. block heater wire
9. wiring harness, trans cooler lines and front battery cable clamp at the oil pan
10. fuel return lines at engine
11. oil cooler lines at engine
12. hood
13. air cleaner
14. generator wires and clips
15. wiring at the injector pump
16. wiring from the rocker arm clips, including the glow plug wires
17. egr epr solenoids, glow plug controller and temp solenoid
18. ground strap
19. upper fan shroud
20. fan
21. power steering pump and reservoir
22. accelerator, denet and cruise control cable at the injection pump
23. heater hose at the engine
24. radiator
*support trans with jack
25. engine

You need about 3 feet of extensions and a swivel to reach the bell housing bolts from underneath the vehicle.

You may need to bend back the clips hanging from the bell housing bolts to slide the socket on. Plus it will be very helpful to have an assistant guild the socket onto the nuts on top as well.

Hang in there and be patient.

[gumps10]

That's what I was looking for. Not complicated just straight foward. To the point. Helps you to not miss anything. :) Nothing like having to rewire or replace a tranny Line. Engine hoist's arn't very forgiving.:D

[kmarht]

would it be safe to say these are close enough for a 95 motor? mine siezed up a few months ago and I've finally worked up the free time to take it out.

[ZiGBlazer]

92-93 mechanical pump.
94-95 same animal except for vehicle interiors.
96-on new electronics. minor changes throughout.

So yes it would be the same. If you want more/better information I'd suggest

http://www.alldatadiy.com/

It gives you all the information you ever wanted and more.

[kmarht]

so about step 3.... when the motor is siezed how can I get the bolts on the top out?

[ZiGBlazer]

First I would try a long box end wrench and try to get it from the bottom. Pull the starter for more room and try very hard to reach the bolts from the bottom. You can also buy bent wrenches for reaching into hard spots, I've seen them at harbor freight or norther tool really cheap. Otherwise you will have to do more work. I have used two other ways to get those bolts off.

One works most of the time, which is to pull the torque converter out with the engine, you'll need more room in the front to pull forward, and you have to be very careful not to damage the input seal on the trans.

The other way only works part of the time, depending on the engine, and how it seized. You can pull the pan and disconnect the rods and turn the crank a little, sometimes enough to get to the bolts.

Good luck.

[M123KT-450]

Depending on weather it was locked up due to over heating or heat related.

Or

Running out of oil or lubrication related...

Over heating situation would have caused ring lock up which can be solved by yes pulling the pan unbolting the rods and rolling the crank.

In a crank lock up situation you will do the same except now you have to drop the main caps off as well.

Then lift engine up off the crank n out or pull the trans back and down.

Then simply grab the crank n slide it the flywheel n torque converter off the trans and then take the TC off the fly wheel.

I have had 7 350s go bad on me 5 of which in the same truck and the above mentioned procedure has worked out very well.

Tho once I got attiude and cut it a part but I don't suggest that method...

Mike

[kmarht]

Thanks for the info, can the pan be removed undamaged? seems like a tight fit to get it off without lifting the motor

[M123KT-450]

Now that I'm not sure on guy.

I haven't had the pleasure of ripping a 6.5 out yet...

But when my 6.5 comes out a Gasser will be going back in...

I've had such a great expirence with my 6.5 I hope to never own a second one that's for sure...

On them 350s I was able to drop the pans while in the truck.

But that was a 1966 Chevy C-30 that had room for a 292 I6 or 409 V8.

So there was plenty of room around them good wrench 350s.

Mike

[Stumped]

Why do I get the feeling if we were both at the same place at the same time there would be a fight.....Ive got a couple old 350 gassers..I would almost give you one ...it would be worth it to shut you up about how much you dislike 6.5s.I personally feel your goal on here is to piss people off...your posts have no value at all...this site would be better off if we didnt even respond to your waste of time and effort posts..how could you blow up 7 350's?I have had them running upside down on the roof ,underwater and hydro'd,demo derbys and thrown a couple bricks on the accelerator before the crusher..I have been a gearhead all my life and driving for 31 yrs,and havent blown up 7 engines in my life..even small blocks that were worn out...big blocks that were worn out...I was at the mud bogs today and watched 100 k miles or more motors pulling 5000 rpm for 2-3 minutes at a time and none blew up....

[M123KT-450]

Sounds i'll leave and you can go back to thinking the 6.5 is second to NONE ! :eek:

Mike

[ZiGBlazer]

You will have to lift the motor a bit. Just pull the mount bolts out and lift, but be careful not to crush anything on top or stretch the coolant hoses or anything else. I'd recommend pulling the rest of the stuff off the motor, lift it up and save the pan for later, then the converter bolts, and lastly the trans bolts.

[God prefers Diesels]

Sounds i'll leave and you can go back to thinking the 6.5 is second to NONE ! :eek:

Mike

I don't remember anyone around here saying the 6.5 is second to NONE!.

But the first three words sure were appealing.:cool:

P.S. General Motors says 6.5L's have best power and cooling capabilities between 2000 and 2400 rpm. tsk. tsk. tsk. Oddly, that's where mine does the best too. Or DID the best, I should say.:D

[trukdoc]

...is "siezed up"...best bet is to pull engine and transmission TOGATHER...and dissassemble on floor...on floor...unbolt tranny and remove taking care not to tilt it toooo much... oh,you're gonna make a mess....drain pan if you have'nt already done that...remove intake and pump...you'll need pump anyway for next engine...roll upside down...remove pan and remove all main caps first...should then be able to rotate crank enough to remove torque conv.bolts...but when you pull pan you'll see what's locked up main or rod...have fun...