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View Full Version : HELP desperatley needed with engine problem


TrekStop
07-10-2007, 07:15 PM
Greetings, all. I'm new to this board but am desperate for any help I can get with a serious problem I'm having with the 1995 6.5L TD engine in my Safari Trek MH (P-30 chasis, 46K miles)

We are on a vacation and were stranded over 2K miles from home for a bit and now are at least up and running but the problem is still there and I've no confidence in the machine, at this point.

We've had two dealerships and three independent mechanics looking over our engine but after a new fuel injector pump, ECM, rail pump, filters and speed sensors the problem has diminished but I'm afraid it could come back at any time since the we are only back to the initial symptoms.

It started with a sequence of events that began repeating more frequently until they finally led to a total engine stall each time, going something like this: speedometer begins to suddenly drop / bounce, a few seconds later two lights on the dash appear - Service Engine and Throttle Plate - followed a few seconds later by a abrupt stall.

At first, the engine did not stall when the speedo 'bounced' and the two dash lights lit, but as the frequency of these events increased, the stall began to happen. Once it began stalling, we had to wait 20 minutes to restart it before it would run and then it would stall again with the same sequence of events within 20 minutes to 1 hour.

We finally limped into a town where a mechanic, who was sure it was the notorious fuel injector pump, replaced that as well as the rail pump. At first, we thought the problem was fixed but after some road testing (30 minutes), it came back, with the only difference that the engine would not quite stall - just loose power and then recover. Also, the problem now happened pretty much only when going up a steep incline for some amount of time.

To make a long story short, we limped into two other larger towns where major GM dealerships ran diagnostics, tried to read the computer (it was not capturing the failures for some reason) and replaced all the additional components named above. The various dealers and mechanics could not reproduce the problem and could not figure it out. The speedo bounce that begins it all makes no sense to anyone.

I can reproduce the problem only if going up a steep incline for some amount of time. We tow a car, and that seems to make it worse. I try to be gentle on the engine, but it still happens but at least does not stall out yet. I am concerned though that since replacing the fuel injector pump seemed to help the problem go away before, we may be headed for another break down before we get home. Is the fuel injector pump failing again, I wonder.

I've checked all the ground wires and secured all loose harnesses and wires. I've looked for shorts (did find one in a wire against the manifold) and insulate those. I've checked the fluids, etc.


Since this problem has stumped all the mechanics I can find (particularly the speedo bounce), ANY assistance or information would be gratefully appreciated at this point.

Thanks! - Tim.
tim_dolan@hotmail.com

3bals
07-11-2007, 12:26 PM
See my response in the thread "kick" while driving. Your problem also sounds like a fuel starvation issue.

Jody

davrac1
07-13-2007, 12:14 AM
did they change the (pmd) on the injection pump? sounds like it is getting hot on the inclines and shutting down.don't know about the speedo problem could be a electrical short.

grancito
07-13-2007, 12:27 AM
The stealer always changes the injector pump, good money in that. Sounds like a wierd electrical fault if the speedo shuts down.

Bill5811
07-13-2007, 04:04 PM
Had very similar problem with a 96 1 ton, eventually it did not restart. I found the problem in the connector at the base of the steering column, it had become brittle and was working loose, as if you were shutting of the engine with the key. 100k mi later and no problems.

grancito
07-13-2007, 11:14 PM
Hey I'll go along with that, the whole ignition system is shutting down, look for a bad ignition switch or wiring. The SES and Throttle lights could be caused by the ignition disconnect, but the other ones should also come on as well, confusing.

BlazeGM4
07-14-2007, 01:29 PM
Within the last six months i've had similar problems with my truck. I was driving from Vancouver to Prince George (900km) and within a few hours of the trip i noticed my voltmeter was steadily decreasing. I turned all accesories off since i was getting down to 12v and continued to a town that would have an alternator. Previously, my engine light came on and off which was diagnosed as a failing pmd/fsd, which i was going to change when i could afford it or when the truck died completely. I didn't have my multimeter with me so i wasn't able to accurately test the voltage between batteries and alternator so i stopped in a one pump town (Spences Bridge) and asked the "mechnic looking guy" working in the shop to test my charging system. He asked "Whats the problem" (Horrible breath and bad teeth...the ones he had left)
"I'm losing power and getting down to between 10-12 volts according to my gauge, and i was wanting to borrow a multimeter to check it out."
"Well my tester is on the fritz and i dont have a multimeter, but i dont think you have a problem. You see these new vehicles are a 12 volt system"
"..................Well i guess i'll head to a town that works on 12 volt vehicles.........." then realizing the whole yard was full pre-war vehicles.
So on my way back to civilization my engine light came on and when i used my turn signal or another power source my speedo would bounce with the flux. My next stop i picked up a multimeter and tested the drivers battery which is directly fed from the alternator and it was at 13.6 volts, i thought this was odd so i checked the alternator and it was at 13.8 volts. Then came the passenger battery which was at 10.8 volts. (?) This batter powers everything, starter, pmd/fsd, fuel pump, accessories etc. The connection between the positive battery cables looked ok but when i took them off they were badly corroded (stupid setup) Once cleaned i was tightening the bolt and it suddenly got loose again...(@#$&!) wether it was stripped before or not i needed a new battery if i was to continue on :/
With the new battery installed and terminals clean and tight i started her up. A few seconds later the dash voltmeter read 14 volts, yay. From that point on i've had no engine lights or bouncing speedos.
I doubt this could be your problem but i hope it helps.
Good luck,
Dave

TrekStop
07-17-2007, 03:07 AM
All - thanks for the replies. It does seem like an electrical problem, but since the (entire) injection pump assembly was changed, the problem has been happening less frequently. In fact, it only seems to happen going up hill now, and also once I've run about 150 miles at least. Does not matter what the fuel level is.

I've checked for bad connectors around the ignition and batteries and will try metering the voltage(s) beginning tomorrow. It still follows the same pattern of the bouncing speedo for a few seconds, the two dash lights coming on (as if the ignition switch has been turned off), followed immediatly by the power loss and then a quick recovery. All within a few seconds.

Thanks,
-Tim.