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Thread: leaking front and rear transfer case/gear box

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brentwood, California
    Posts
    303

    Unhappy leaking front and rear transfer case/gear box

    anyone ever tackled leaking drivetrain parts? Im not sure about it all.
    Jon c.

    95 GMC k2500 ex cab long box, FSD Heat-Sync,6 new ops switches, lift pump, lift pump relay, Homemade boost controller, Removed Vac Pump, Cooling upgrade, 4" lift, Rancho 9000 shocks, Air induction kit, 3" downpipe, 3 1/2" straight pipe, SSD Instant Heat Glow plugs, SSD Marine Injectors, Nitto Terra Grappler 305/70 R16. 280,000 miles. All Running on B100

    99 Chev Suburban, 2500, PMD heat sync and remote mounting, 4x4, all else stock. 140,000 mliles.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Campbell River, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    94

    Default

    What parts are leaking? front or rear diff? t-case, tranny?
    1994 Blazer 4x4 ~ 6.5td L56 "S", 4L80E, 3.73gr Auburn LS Differential, SSD Air Intake, Autometer Cobalt Pyro & Boost gauges, LT265/70R17 on '05 Chevy wheels, SSD Fuel Miser economy chip

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brentwood, California
    Posts
    303

    Default

    yeah, the front of the rear diff, and the transfer case. The tranny is only about 20,000 miles old, its fine.
    Jon c.

    95 GMC k2500 ex cab long box, FSD Heat-Sync,6 new ops switches, lift pump, lift pump relay, Homemade boost controller, Removed Vac Pump, Cooling upgrade, 4" lift, Rancho 9000 shocks, Air induction kit, 3" downpipe, 3 1/2" straight pipe, SSD Instant Heat Glow plugs, SSD Marine Injectors, Nitto Terra Grappler 305/70 R16. 280,000 miles. All Running on B100

    99 Chev Suburban, 2500, PMD heat sync and remote mounting, 4x4, all else stock. 140,000 mliles.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    the left side of massachusetts
    Posts
    70

    Default

    As for the transfer case if it's leaking where the drive shaft is thats not a bad fix. Drop the drive shaft and pop out the seal and replace, make sure you clean the yoke before you put it back into the transfer case and I always use a little general purpose grease on the seal so it won't be dry when putting in the yoke of the drive shaft. Sometimes the yoke is worn and you have to replace that. Yokes aren't that pricey and it's the perfect time to replace your u-joints too.

    Dan
    Dan,
    1996 K2500 6.5TD, 4" stainless steel exhaust, stock injectors, AFE cold air intake, FSD Heat-Sync and #7 resistor, Turbo-Master waste gate controler, Heath ECM, Autometer Sportcomp II EGT and Boost gauges, 15PSI Max. Boost

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Brentwood, California
    Posts
    303

    Default

    What about the rear diff? any tips?
    Jon c.

    95 GMC k2500 ex cab long box, FSD Heat-Sync,6 new ops switches, lift pump, lift pump relay, Homemade boost controller, Removed Vac Pump, Cooling upgrade, 4" lift, Rancho 9000 shocks, Air induction kit, 3" downpipe, 3 1/2" straight pipe, SSD Instant Heat Glow plugs, SSD Marine Injectors, Nitto Terra Grappler 305/70 R16. 280,000 miles. All Running on B100

    99 Chev Suburban, 2500, PMD heat sync and remote mounting, 4x4, all else stock. 140,000 mliles.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Campbell River, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    94

    Default

    I'm not sure about the full floating axles, but if it were a 10-bolt diff you'd have to pull it all apart to replace the rear pinion. Pull the cover, drain the oil. Remove the cross pin bolt (be VERY careful not to snap it cause it's not easy extracting it one you do....experience speaking) Slide out the cross pin, push the axles in to remove both c-clips then slide them out of the way. Unbolt the carrier (making sure not to lose any shims from the side gears) Remove the driveshaft and remove nut holding the pinion gear in and pull it out, then you should be able to replace the pinion seal. I've probably got something wrong somewhere but i'm sure someone will correct me. I'm fairly certain the pinion gear has to be removed in order to replace the seal but i've never replaced one before. And since you're a 3/4 ton you probably have a full floating axle. Hope this helps.
    1994 Blazer 4x4 ~ 6.5td L56 "S", 4L80E, 3.73gr Auburn LS Differential, SSD Air Intake, Autometer Cobalt Pyro & Boost gauges, LT265/70R17 on '05 Chevy wheels, SSD Fuel Miser economy chip

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Campbell River, B.C. Canada
    Posts
    94

    Default

    http://www.universityofjeep.ca/pinion_seal.html

    Link for 14-bolt pinion seal replacment.
    1994 Blazer 4x4 ~ 6.5td L56 "S", 4L80E, 3.73gr Auburn LS Differential, SSD Air Intake, Autometer Cobalt Pyro & Boost gauges, LT265/70R17 on '05 Chevy wheels, SSD Fuel Miser economy chip

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Baja California Sur Mexico
    Posts
    2,682

    Default

    there is no need to strip the diff, just remove the drive shaft and yoke and there is space to put a large screwdriver in to remove the seal.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    14

    Default Leaking Front & Rear Transfer

    OK, I have a 2500 CK and it appears that mine is actually leaking trans fluid from the end of the yoke, I have already replaced the Tranny seal around the drive shaft input.
    Anyone seen this before...?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    the left side of massachusetts
    Posts
    70

    Default

    Replace the yoke. They are not that expensive.
    Dan,
    1996 K2500 6.5TD, 4" stainless steel exhaust, stock injectors, AFE cold air intake, FSD Heat-Sync and #7 resistor, Turbo-Master waste gate controler, Heath ECM, Autometer Sportcomp II EGT and Boost gauges, 15PSI Max. Boost

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