Injection pump going out?????

[oldyeller6.5]

i have 270,000 miles on my 93 fully mechanical 6.5. still the original IP, i have ran it about 30,000 miles since i bought it and an without the lift pump for a while and never experienced any troubles except the occaisional stall in which i had to be pulled about ten feet for it to start. fixed the lift pump, new ops, and also got a new glow plug controller and plugs. it will start like a dream cold, start like a dream hot, but its happened a few times that when my truck is about cold just above the 100º line or a bit higher, and the glow plugs will either turn on for a couple seconds, not at all, or even 5 seconds, and it will crank, puff white smoke a lil bit but will not start. . . then i get pulled about 3 feet and it starts, i hear about problems with the db2 and hot start issues when they get worn out. . . . i know that all 8 cylinders have good compression so i'm not sure, it had a fresh fuel filter not much over 6000 miles ago. . . any help would be greatly appreciated. ? ? ? ?

[grancito]

Sounds like symptoms of slow cranking, Could be bad batteries, lack of starter lubrication, or worn starter brushes. My Chev with 260,000 miles DB2 IP has bad batteries and needs 6 seconds of glow plugs to start when hot, has manual GP control.

[oldyeller6.5]

mine cranks fine, for the most part it kills the batteries after two or three twenty second tries though, the batteries are only 2 years old but go dead easily and are getting weaker. my connections are also corroding badly after only short periods of time, i am putting new connections on today and goinna see if that helps with battery life and any other electrical problems it has. . . . . , starter is almost new and cranks super fast. the thing it is is its only sometimes, between ip temp and cold, it has fuel and compression, my buddy has a 93 like mine and with his diesel tech brother we traced to the rotary head being worn out and probably shot. these pumps have tight clearances and warm the clearances are greater, and with 270,000 miles the pump i would imagine is probably getting ready, these were prone to going out, and most are replaced at about 150k-180k. . . the thing is with the glows, they sometimes wont turn on which would seem that it was warm enough to start but it wont start at all.

[BeelzaBubba]

I'd say that if the batteries are going dead that quick, probably need to be replaced; though check them after repairing cables and see if there is a difference, corrosion can be complicating matters.
Yes, DB2's had issues with head warping and it shows a symptom after experiencing heat soak. Some people have confirmed this by pouring water over the pump when there was a hot no start condition. If it started right away after pouring water on it, they knew it was time to replace it. I also have noted that several guys using waste veggie oil in their pumps noted hard/no start hot conditions and added Stanadyne lubrication additive and had good short term results before retreating was required.

For what it's worth, I'd give the water a try and see if it makes a difference. From there you can determine what you'd like to do.

[oldyeller6.5]

yeah i haven't ran any additive for the last bit cuz i havent had enough to fill it up more than $40, i usually run 8 oz of 2 stroke oil and 8 oz of power service additive, stanadyne loses me mileage. i think i might take some of the old school idi mechanics advice and throw a quart or 2 of ATF through it next time i filll completely up, being that ATF is mostly sulfur, and i never get tested for dye. and also my truck never once stalled or lost power when they still used regular low sulfur in the red dye, but now that even dyed is ULSD its not worth getting caught anymore haha. i'll figure something out, i already ordered paint for my truck before this happened so there's $100 i dont have now haha, but i guess i wil try that water trick next time it does it cuz i dont have to start it hot or warm often, usually completely cold a few times per day

[JD_countryboy]

Ive had that problem in the past, Load test your sickly batterys. and check your grounds. burned a battery cable terminal off one day tryin to get my warm, approx 120*, truck to start. Had plendy of juice to spin engine, but not enough to spin engine and open FSO. Found i had a bad batt on right side, and a sub par ground on the left batt. Pair of new batts and a good ground connection, and fired right up. Oh yea, and the bad batt showed 12.2 volts before and after load testing. When under load it dropped to 2 volts.

[grancito]

You said it will start after towing it 3 ft, sign that the battery voltage at the solenoid in the IP is so low that it won't open when cranking

[oldyeller6.5]

thanks, ya i can literally push start it and it will fire right up. didnt get to the batteries today, i'll get to it tomorrow and let you know how things go. thanks

[oldyeller6.5]

i'm also looking for a TD07 or HX-35 turbo, is anyone knows where to get one for a decent price PM me please!!

[Husker 6.5]

Check the passenger side positive battery terminal. If it's still using the two stock cable ends, there's a round lead spacer that goes between them that over time squashes flat and doesn't make good continuity between the cable ends when the terminal bolt is tightened. It does funky things to voltage readings and current draws, like the starter will try to pull off the passenger side battery only. Good news is the piece is available at NAPA and O'Reilly's for only a couple of bucks.