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Thread: Injection pump going out?????

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Cody, Wyoming
    Posts
    54

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    Quote Originally Posted by Husker 6.5 View Post
    Check the passenger side positive battery terminal. If it's still using the two stock cable ends, there's a round lead spacer that goes between them that over time squashes flat and doesn't make good continuity between the cable ends when the terminal bolt is tightened. It does funky things to voltage readings and current draws, like the starter will try to pull off the passenger side battery only. Good news is the piece is available at NAPA and O'Reilly's for only a couple of bucks.
    thats probably it, i havent got to it yet but on the driver side i used a regular bolt w/ same threading and a lock nut on each side of the cable end to use as a spacer to help get the connections tight and have good connection. i'll probably just do the same on the other side considering i've never once had problems with the second battery conections loosening or that battery not charging
    "Old Yeller" 1993 Chevrolet k2500 4x4 SCLB, 6.5TD w/ 269,XXX miles. 3"DP, 3" straightpipe, "swiss cheese" aribox, wastegate wired so it only opens 1/2 way. Custom built flatbed, 1 ton rear axle, NV4500 transmission. Lots of future plans money is too tight right now.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Lincoln, NE USA
    Posts
    712

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    BTW, for clarity sake, the spacer goes between the two positive cable ends on the passenger side battery.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Cody, Wyoming
    Posts
    54

    Default

    yes i know, i'm sure its the a combonation, i know the batteries are going to need replaced soon, but also the thing about the pump absorbing the heat and no start, then pouring cold water over it and it started, i had to jump it though so i'm not exactly sure which one it is, i'm going to charge the batteries and fix the connections tomorrow when i get paid, going to convert to top post connectors because the side connectors just piss me off. luckily my batteries have top and side connections, will see how it goes
    "Old Yeller" 1993 Chevrolet k2500 4x4 SCLB, 6.5TD w/ 269,XXX miles. 3"DP, 3" straightpipe, "swiss cheese" aribox, wastegate wired so it only opens 1/2 way. Custom built flatbed, 1 ton rear axle, NV4500 transmission. Lots of future plans money is too tight right now.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Lincoln, NE USA
    Posts
    712

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    If you want to do it in a slick manner with dual post batteries do this: Maintain the stock cable that connects the two batteries' positive side posts, then use a pre-molded 0 or 00 gauge top post cable about 6" longer than stock from the starter to the passenger battery. You'll be 1 to 2 gauge sizes larger than stock and will have better current flow and higher voltage to the starter -- faster turning speed.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Cody, Wyoming
    Posts
    54

    Default

    no new batteries, but fixed the connections, its just the batteries are going bad, priced some and figured i'm gonna see if my warranty will still replace my interstates cuz the batteries suck
    "Old Yeller" 1993 Chevrolet k2500 4x4 SCLB, 6.5TD w/ 269,XXX miles. 3"DP, 3" straightpipe, "swiss cheese" aribox, wastegate wired so it only opens 1/2 way. Custom built flatbed, 1 ton rear axle, NV4500 transmission. Lots of future plans money is too tight right now.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    East Tennessee
    Posts
    14

    Default battery dohicky

    thanks for sharing that about the drivers side battery cable spacer between the cables. I have a problem keeping it tight and will check out NAPA/O'Reilly's and fix my problem. Good information...

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