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Thread: messed up 93 6.5 td

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

    Red face messed up 93 6.5 td

    So, this is my first real post as I have been reading all the posts that may pertain to my issues. There is so much great information on here.
    First I have a 93 Chevy 6.5 TD, K3500, single rear wheels, extended cab, long box, w/gooseneck hitch. (Love the gooseneck nothing pulls better.) 234,000 miles. I have had this truck for about 6 yrs., with only a few problems.
    This last winter while using it to pull the mini excavator around, it began to show problems. It would start fine, I plug it in religiously, after about 5-10 min. at idle it would sputter and miss. Sometimes I could give it just a little higher idle and it would come out of it, sometimes not. I could crank it over and it would take just a little to pop off again like it got a little air. This would happen sometimes 3-4 times in a row, the same way. Once I get it to the open road and get moving, I kind of baby it a little, it would come out of it and be fine the whole rest of the day, even letting it set while at work for 8 hrs. I have had the tank down and cleaned, all new parts there, pick up hose, sending unit, all that, the old ones snapped off when i tried to remove them. I did the new lift pump, and new factory fuel line to the filter, new filter several times.
    That stuff I can live with, gets frustrating though, but last week I started it and it acted like it was loading up with fuel. Started fine and idled fine for 8 min. and I tried to move it. I made it about 60 ft. and it started acting up again. This time though it was puffing lots of white smoke that smelled like lighter fluid on a BBQ when someone puts the lid on and snuffs the fire out before the fluid is all burnt up. Of course I was 3 miles from nowhere, with my partner in crime and no one else to call. So I checked under the hood (like I could tell anything from looking) and with out tools, I was forced to try to start it again. It smoked a lot, like a 007 smoke screen. It wasn't making any noises abnormal to the diesel except for a little miss. I have acquired a compression tester, and am planning on replacing the injectors and pump if all the cylinders are up to snuff.
    I am looking for a word of encouragement in hopes that I am headed in the right direction. What is a good psi or is it OK if they are just all close to the same.
    Any ideas on these issues, are they related.
    BTW at first with the "air" problem it was helped by leaving the fuel cap loose.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Cody, Wyoming
    Posts
    54

    Default

    sounds like a bad injector to me, mine misses like that on the number 7 cylinder in the cold mornings, new glow plugs made it worse cuz i dont plug it in till below 20 now but its almost summer so i already have the cords put away. i think you have a fully shot injector cuz mine has a really bad injector knock when its cold on low idle, like it lopes pretty bad, but it evens that out and is just a small miss once i kick it on high idle. and once moving sometimes it will act up in first not low, so technically 2nd but it will act up until op temp, but what i do is shift from there to 3rd really fast @ low rpms and gun it so it dumps a bunch of fuel so it lugs it and rolls coal and that always clears it up.
    "Old Yeller" 1993 Chevrolet k2500 4x4 SCLB, 6.5TD w/ 269,XXX miles. 3"DP, 3" straightpipe, "swiss cheese" aribox, wastegate wired so it only opens 1/2 way. Custom built flatbed, 1 ton rear axle, NV4500 transmission. Lots of future plans money is too tight right now.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

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    I was going to change the IP and all the injectors now. Is this a good idea or is it a waste of money? I know it has more than 100,000 miles on these injectors, and pump. Is it true that the IP and injectors should be changed at the same time? What about the age of the engine? will it hurt to have upgraded injectors in it? What about marine injectors or lower pressure? I don't want to tear the engine down any further than I have to. I don't want to add too much to it and blow it apart.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,962

    Default

    DB2 IP that you have will last almost 400,000 miles. Mine has 260K with the fuel screw adjusted once and has no problems.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, new engine, 0 miles. 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

    Thumbs up

    that makes me a feel a little better that's a large expense i don't mind not making. That would leave enough for that 4" exhaust. Which leaves another question which would last longer for the money the aluminized steel or the stainless?
    Thanks for all the good info.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    94

    Default

    If you're just looking to keep your truck running dependably, stock injectors are more than enough. As far as exhaust, stainless will definitely last longer than the aluminized.

    With the mileage you have, if you have not replaced the harmonic balancer, I suggest in replacing it. Suggested replacement is every 100K.
    No nation should owe a debt any greater than that which is owed to its veterans! Thank You Veterans!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

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    Thanks, I tried to test the compression and pegged the gauge. 300 psi. didn't cut it, Oriellys' supper staff said it would work, and me trying to save a couple days not waiting on shipping thought I would try it. Luckily they took it back without question when I told them it wasn't high enough. So now I am supposed to get the new compression tester delivered today.
    When I started the truck up to pull it into the shop though it didn't act up at all. Would it matter if it is parked on level ground or not as to how it would react? It sat about the same amount of time each time I have been using it lately. This time it was on level ground and sat for about 4 days. When I started it I had to tap on the glow plug relay it sticks (yes I am replacing it too) It cycled once I tried it and it popped right off without issue little rough still. I was able to get into the garage without it stalling, or smoking like crazy. I only let it idle for about 1 min.
    Does an injector act up intermittently?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

    Default Update

    So with all the kids 6, 4 and 10 months I am able to keep pretty buisy. lol
    Any way I got the turbo off with the right extensions it was easy but the 6 hours before that was a pain. I was able to test all the compression in all the cylinders with #1 reaching 425psi. and the rest sticking around 410psi with 235,000 miles, this sounded OK to me. thoughts??? I am ready to get new GP and injectors, and install them I talked to the original owner and he had never touched the injectors so I think I could put the money in on another set if they'll last 100-200 K that would suite me just fine. I found the X-over pipe has a gap of about 2 inches on each side (maybe it is time for a new one). the down pipe is 3 inch but the weld at the end looks like crud I may still get the new 4" SSD exhaust just for the growl. Had to put in a new radiator the original was disintegrating on the outside copper fins.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    94

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    CJ- I'd be willing to bet that if the injectors were never changed the vibration damper on the crank was never changed either. Both are usually recommended to be done every 100k; I'd look at replacing that too since it's a whole lot cheaper than replacing a broken crank/engine.
    No nation should owe a debt any greater than that which is owed to its veterans! Thank You Veterans!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Nauvoo, IL
    Posts
    18

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    Ya, I forgot to mention that part I have been looking at parts at different sites for the last two days, and it kinda makes my head spin. I am replacing both the HB and the pulley that attaches to it, and the timing cover seal, while I am in there. They didn't look that bad but with all the horror stories and with everything out of the road. I am also getting the moog Pitman arm and idler arm and frame mount, it is all right there. I hope it comes out as easy as it looks from the top. I also have to replace the gp connectors as they didn't take the removal very well. The #1 injector line is really looking rusted can i change just that line? Can I do this without removing the intake/IP?
    Thanks

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