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Thread: 4x4 Actuator Needed... Recomendations?

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Denver
    Posts
    33

    Default

    They are worth every penny and easy to install. I had one on my truck 15+yrs ago when they were first developed. Plan on having one on the Burb when it's in the budget.
    1994 Suburban 4x4, 4" Exhaust, Heat-Sink w/#9 Resistor, K&N Drop-In, Custom Front 2" Receiver, Autometer Pyro and Boost Gauges, Polished Wheels from an '03 GMC, Too New to Me to Know What Else

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Anybody have a picture showing where I locate the two mounting bolts that hold the right side of my front differential?

    Does the posi lock happen to come with installation instructions?
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 185,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Attica, OH
    Posts
    1,061

    Default

    Yes it comes with directions, and pics too.

    Cant miss the two bolts. All you will see are the nuts fron the underside as the bolt comes from inside the framerail. Where your front diff meets the right frame rail you will see the mount and bolt/nuts.
    93 chevy K2500 6.5TD 4x4 4l80e auto
    Custom flatbed with foldaway gooseneck ball
    SSDiesel DB2 injector pump marine injectors
    Upgraded turbo ( no id tag but lots of boost)
    SSDiesel 4" exhaust, no muffler, SS crossover
    Rebuilt 4l80e tranny Transgo stage 2 shift kit
    rebuilt HD torque converter
    4x4 Posi Lock
    Opened up air box, stock filter
    Boost, Pyro, Tranny gauges in A-pillar
    Cowl hood, all new paint.
    SS Diesel Cooling upgrade, single tstat Dmax fan,
    '98 HO waterpump.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    329

    Default

    Great, thanks.
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 185,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016.

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    So I bought a newer style actuator from Kabele Auto Parts, and the pigtail would normally plug into the actuator on the newer one, and my '95 and '93 both have the wire permanently attached, and the connector clipped to a bracket on the diffy tube. What pigtail adapter do I need? I don't want to cut the wires. Sorry, pix 3 & 5 are crap. the seller told me the newer style actuator would def fir with a GM adapter pigtail
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    Here's a better pix, I tried to delete 3 & 5... Sorry. It was cold, and I was trying to get a clear pix
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Devils Lake, ND
    Posts
    363

    Default

    I had the old style thermo electric actuator and switched
    it out to the electric servo new style..... works fantastic
    and Amazon had them for like $60
    1995 Chevy 3500 6.5 TD
    *Heath 80 HP chip
    *Warp Speed 4" Exhaust
    *Bully Dog Pillar gauges
    *Cooling Fan Upgrade
    *Air Cleaner Upgrade
    *Turbo Master


    1995 GMC 3500HD 6.5 TD 16 foot Flatbed
    *NV4500 Trany Recent Rebuild
    *Glow Plug Upgrade
    *4" Heartthrob Exhaust w/no muffler (turbo back)

    1981 VW PickUp (Caddy) (48 MPG)
    *Drop in Turbo D engine
    *15 gallon tank
    *81,000 original miles on body

    1986 VW Jetta Turbo D (42 MPG)
    *Rebuilt Trany
    *190,000 with one family

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    17

    Default

    I found the motorized GM actuator at a differential wholesaler for $55 inc SH, a new diffy take off, after I was informed that the thermal was junk, so I returned the new one to Advance Auto ($130), bought the electric motor style harness, a China GM copy for $40, I believe, and installed it, here...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lHwbMbJxJFI

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=daiUtJNLj7Y

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b9K4qWOKeSc

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aw6U9yOaHE8

    One important change I made, breaking with the enclosed instructions and the on line instructions, is to install the "new" brown wire to the underhood fuse box. I jammed it between the fuse holder receptacle (20A) and the plastic. I soldered on a thin terminal then shrink tubed it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by UGLYTRUK; 03-23-2012 at 10:39 PM.

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
    Posts
    157

    Default

    I just installed my posi-lock and now my transfer case grinds from neutral to hi or low, plus my trans will grind from gear to park. What gives? Any thought would be appreciated.
    PS- I did mess with the adjustment on the actuator and it didn't seem to make any difference.
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

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