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Thread: Weird electrical issue?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default Weird electrical issue?

    I have been plugging my truck into the garage outlet for years with no problems. All of my garage and basement outlets are on one electric circuit, with a GFCI outlet at the beginning of the circuit. For the past couple of weeks, anytime I plug in my truck, the GFCI kicks off. I replaced the GFCI outlet and tried plugging my truck into other basement outlets. Even if I unplug everything else, the GFCI outlet still kicks off. I did make sure the electric cord was not cut and also tried another cord with the same result. Nothing else that I plug into the basement or garage makes this happen.

    Could it be the block heater or cord?

    I installed two new batteries about the time this started. I was careful to use the correct order for removing/attaching the cables. Could something related to the battery switch out be causing this?

    Any suggestions will be much appreciated. It's warm outside now but I still want to get this fixed sooner rather than later.
    Last edited by RipnRun; 04-28-2019 at 10:11 PM. Reason: correction
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,891

    Default

    Unplug the heater at the block, it pulls straight out but is tight, now connect the power, you may have damaged the cable when changing the battery. If it is OK, you need a new heater. I would have thought that the tires were adequate insulation, but a dog may have pissed on a wheel.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default

    Thanks, I'll check it out.
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default

    I couldn't find a visible problem with the block heater cord. I couldn't get all the way to the block heater laying on my back in the driveway, lol, but after the first 18 inches the cord is strapped down pretty tight. The battery cables look good, they are recently cleaned and tight. I cleaned up the male end of the heater cord with WD-40 and a rag. After watching a YouTube video, I tested the ohms with a multi-meter on the block heater cord male end and it read 25, does that mean the block heater is good?

    I am still setting off the GFCI outlet, even when I use different Yellow Jacket extension cords. If I understand correctly, since it is kicking off at the GFCI outlet, that indicated a current leak.

    Should I go ahead and replace the block heater and cord or what else could cause the current leak?

    Thanks for any suggestions!
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,891

    Default

    I guess that you tested between the 2 pins on the plug, and yes the heater is working, but you need to test from one of the pins to ground (the engine or -ve battery terminal) I can't find the resistance that will trip the switch, but it will be in the K or M ohm region. I unplugged mine from the top, not easy to get to, but you need to do that to test the lead. If the lead is OK you have a worse job of changing the heater. The screw/bolt has to be undone quite a lot, but not so much that the clamp inside the block falls off into the pit of hell. You may have to keep pulling the heater outward, to stop the flat bar inside from spinning instead of the screw undoing. The heater then can be pulled part way out and moved to the side for the element to come through the hole. I would get rid of the GFCI and just don't touch the truck when the heater is plugged in.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default

    Thanks, I'll try to get to it from the top.
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,891

    Default

    There is a possibility, if you drive on salt roads, that some has coated the surface of the heater and into the plug, thus causing a leak to ground. Worth washing them to see if it fixes the problem.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default

    I do drive on salt roads. I'll give it a shot, thanks.
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    354

    Default

    Sorry I have been so long getting back. I twisted my back bad and I've been slowly getting caught up on work after being out of commission for a period. I'm ready to replace the block heater and I'm definitely going to pay somebody to do it, my back is still pretty tender and I'm not as young as I used to be.

    About the pictures below: I have had a little intermittent starter missing/spinning. I thought it was kind of soon for a new or rebuilt starter but just figured it will need replacing sometime soon. Today, it wouldn't start, just spin. look what I found under the truck! (see pics). The starter bolt broke at the start of the threads.

    My question is this, if I replace the starter bolt, is there a chance the starter is OK, or should I plan to replace/rebuild?

    broke starter bolt.jpg
    broke starter bolt 2.jpg
    1997 Silverado 1500 6.5. with 200,000 miles. New fuel injection pump at 132,000 mi. FSD Heat-Sync in bumper hole, marine fuel injectors, air induction kit all from Walt at 148,000 mi. Replaced OEM Fuel Filter Assy, wastegate solenoid valve, OPS and relay at 155,000 mi. Harmonic Balancer replaced. Red dot and White dot EGR replaced. New starter, Instant Heat glow plugs, and glow plug relay/controller at 180,000. Replaced hydroboost and master cylinder in 2016. New Interstate batteries 4/13/19.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,891

    Default

    The starter will be fine. Does it have a bracket to the block on the other end? They need the bracket, the scum mechanics are too lazy to put it back on, and that can break the bolts or the block and wreck the ring gear, an expensive labour job to replace.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

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