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Thread: Pulling engine

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
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    194

    Default Pulling engine

    first time pulling an engine, the kids are helping me while quarantined and auto shop is on hold while I try to figure out how to remove the top two bolts. Any pointers would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Default

    I took mine out of the same year suburban, used one method to get the top 2 bolts then accessed them from the top when installing. For removal, I removed the transmission cross support, by jacking the transmission up as high as possible and then lowered it onto the main cross member, the top bolts with difficulty can be removed using about 3 feet of extensions and a universal before the socket. The transmission shops split the transfer case off the transmission, to lower the back further. I made an overhead creeper to install the engine, which allows me to get my hand down the back of the engine and use a ring spanner (box wrench), you still may need to access the passenger side one from below, I can't remember, but that side is more accessible from below. You need to drop the back of the transmission, to get the right angle to lift the engine off the mounts , unless you remove the mounts from the cross member, very difficult, the front diff is in the way.
    Last edited by grancito; 04-10-2020 at 06:40 PM.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
    Posts
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    Default

    Thanks, Grant.
    I now have the motor out and the heads off and I’m at a point where I need to decide if it’s even worth putting the motor back together. I need some advice.
    What started all of this is that I had a clogged injector that overheated one of my exhaust valves, that led to side to side play which broke the nylon rocker retainer and the rocker slipped off the valve. Plus, it leaks from the front seal the rear main and the oil cooler lines
    Upon my own inspection, I notice a handful of things:
    The first is, the tip of each exhaust valve is “chipped”. I did not replace the rockers, lifters or pushrods when I replaced the heads at 255,000mi so it seems they may be out of tolerance and hammering the valves. The odd thing is that the intake valves are just fine. Are the valves shot or can I run them for a while?
    Second, a couple of the pistons show what look like cracks. So I feel like I could put a fair amount of money into this and still be on borrowed time.
    Replacing gaskets and seals doesn’t bother me but I feel like I should just do the minimum and run it until it quits. Then look at replacing the motor altogether rather than putting what might be a couple grand on a bottom end that is a big question mark.

    Thoughts?
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

  4. #4
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    Feb 2007
    Posts
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    Default

    The chipped valve tips could chew the rocker surface, I could send you a set of exhaust valves that are only slightly hammered on the tips of a few, which were working fine, but the mail from here could take up to a month and a half. Look at the push rod ends where they fit in the rocker, and the rocker surfaces to see if they are worn. 1994 year has bad lifters, most likely what caused your problem, I had to replace my lifters rockers and push rods, the lifters failed damaging the other parts. The cost of those from rockauto is about $300 from memory, replace the nylon rocker retainer buttons, they will break when you remove them, because of being brittle from old age. I have never seen cracks on the top of a piston, only the skirts, common for 70s fords, so look close, if so, it could be a problem. I stripped my engine at 223,000 and the bottom end was fine, so I used the crank shaft with new bearings in the new engine.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Short of just looking polished, the rockers and pushrods look fine. I’m going to try to attach a photo of what the valve stems look like. The exhaust all look similar, like there is a different metal on the tips, maybe only 1mm worth and that is what is chipped. The intake valves show no wear. I’m thinking the bare minimum is to replace the valves, if needed and all the exhaust lifters. The valve in the foreground is an intake, background is an exhaust. 28B156C2-D94C-4FAF-AC93-E76A7F0E472A.jpg
    Last edited by CAdiesel; 04-21-2020 at 04:37 PM.
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,926

    Default

    Only just spotted your post, and have been looking each day. The exhaust valves look bad, the original valves don't have the case hardening on the tip, the inlet valves should be turned 180 degrees, the tip shows a bevel in the photo, they don't spin like the exhaust valves. Don't replace half of the lifters, the original ones are no good, and replacing them with the heads on is difficult, they are only $10 each. I have seen the valve length tolerance, it is small, so grinding 1 mm off the tip, may not work, but worth investigating.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Thanks Grant.
    Looks like I’m doing exhaust valves.

    I’m considering doing the oil pump while I have the engine out. Do you have any idea what kind of life span they have? If they don’t have a tendency for failure I may just leave it. Or does it lead to replacing other parts as well?
    Last edited by CAdiesel; 04-24-2020 at 01:09 PM.
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,926

    Default

    I don't know the life span of the pump, but if the oil pressure was OK at hot idle, it is probably fine. I had to put a new later model high capacity one in the new block because it has piston squirters. If you are not using an engine stand, turning the engine over to remove the pan is not easy, if you do remove the pan, don't go mad on the silicone, sealant, half of the oil feed screen on mine, was blocked with lumps of silicone.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Folsom, CA
    Posts
    194

    Default

    Oil pressure was very good prior to pulling motor. So I think I’ll leave it.
    Motor is in a stand so I was planning on flipping it and redoing the oil pan seal. I have read to use silicon and not the pan gasket. I also have a couple leaks from the front seal (main balancer is shot also) and possible rear main (though it may be more pain than it’s worth, it’s not leaking too bad). I have the bad head torn apart and the damage is exceptional. All from a bad/clogged injector.
    Mike
    1994 K2500 Suburban 316,000 mi., F VIN, 4L80E, 3.73 w/posi., 3" turbo back, no cat, FSD Heat Sync, #9 resistor, SSD heads, SSD intake, fuel miser injectors, Bastard IP (5068), 4x4 posi, Cooling upgrade w/duel 180 t-stats and d-max fan

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    2,926

    Default

    The pan doesn't have to be removed to replace the seals, but I had to remove the engine from the stand to fit the rear seal. Puncture the seal with a thin screwdriver, or drive it between the seal and housing then lever it out. Seals wear out, the rear main is not necessarily worn. Oh I see, you want to reseal the pan, you can remove the rear seal easily by removing the rear main cap, but the 4 bolts are stretched like the head ones and need replacing.
    Grant H.
    1995 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 extra cab 4x4 pickup, PMD under bumper, mechanical wastegate, 228,000 miles, rebuilt engine, 4.10 diff, 16 mpg
    1994 6.5 turbo GMC K2500 4x4 suburban #9 resistor, PMD in the bumper, mechanical waste gate, 226,000 miles, 3.73 diff, 16 mpg
    1982 4x4 shortbed 6.2 Chev 260,000 miles untouched motor 17 MPG 4.27 diff. Best thing I ever owned, since 1992.

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